Im still confused.
If you have issues such as steering where you get toe in or toe out when you disconnect the shocks from the buggy totally and just up the wishbone and drop it then that means the actual steering section on the chassis is not correct and you will need to space the steering plate from the steering plastic parts (preferably the steering plate for the ZX is better that the ZXR) to zero the bump steer. This is what I believe your on about. I cant understand that if your talking about the knuckle arms how your getting binding in any position unless and this is the big question, what are the front wishbones your using as if not Kyosho then explains why your getting this problem.
Relating to the bump & grind chapter - If Kyosho wishbones I have had to file a little chunk off in the wishbone (in second picture you can just make out a groove for the bottom of the screw to go into as I couldn't be bothered to cut the screw bottom off) to account for the knuckle arms full lock, but when done the steering lock is plenty and no more is needed. Pics are attached of mine and in the inner hole of the castor block so giving a much wider front end.
The write up on the magazine isn't that accurate but then again this was written not long after the car got released and used a lot of items that were made by A&L and hate to say it but the steering items and various other items including the alloy front castor block which bends big time on impact (I've had and tested to destruction most things for this car) that were used were not as good, in my opinion anyway. I did however use the motor mount as it was good to use with the rear top deck mount as these did dissipate the heat from the motor so you could gear much higher, and of course the pivot block holders.
Update me with more info as I would like to get to resolve all of your issues so you can get out there and have some fun.
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