For once here, that's totally my domain of expertise.
Non leaded ROHS are way more difficult to work with, you need a decent iron, not necessary a high temp. Use to set temp to 390 Celsius but sometimes for large solder points or desoldering I push to 400 and up.
The joint will not be shiny most of the time, strange at first but ok, could be hard to spot a dry joint. As far as desoldering in use, the non leaded should flow at a higher temp so might be better here, oxidation due to external factors less likely too.
Always start with a clean tip (sometimes black deposit recover the tip due to the non-leaded aspect), heat one of the surface start pushing solder to the tip then once it flow move to the tab and add the second surface heating the two at once. If temp is right solder will flow through both conductors then will follow gravity and leave the joint, that's when you will quickly need to stop applying heat. Remember to keep the two surfaces in contact without moving especially after applying heat (10sec or so to be safe), wear a glove or use a towel if you hold the wire by hand.
Solder is no glue to keep components together, try to make a good physical contact, use a hole if there is one.
Inspect the joint and if really needed reflow the joint and add some more solder (you need to reflow the whole joint). Be sure to use the sponge to remove any solder from the tip each time.
You need to find a good medium between too less/too much solder. Don't add too much solder when you tint at first.
I couldn't solder a proper joint on motors with a 12AWG wire in 5 seconds like stated in manuals with non-leaded. 10s I think. Wait for the motor/ESC to cool down completely between each solder to be safe, the components inside those ESC don't like heat at all.
|