5. Pro Setups & Sheets
For the majority of US tracks, rear motor seems to be the faster choice. However, in certain conditions the Midmotor can be. However, the Midmotor really needs the weight kit, which currently isn’t available.
For the majority of indoor clay tracks, Dustin Evan’s setup is the way to start. It is leaps and bounds better than the kit setup. It will work on a variety of other surfaces as well.
http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...1ReedyRace.pdf
The parts you will need to buy to run this setup:
Wider Hexes
5 Degree Front Castor Blocks
3.5 Degree Rear LRC Block
Frank Root also tried out the midmotor setup here in the US at OCRC, and here it is:
http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...kRoot-OCRC.pdf
Here is the setup page from TLR drivers, and is updated with new sheets form different drivers.
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Tec...ProdID=TLR0022
Here is Casey Pecks Setup, which is better suited for outdoor rough hardpacked tracks.
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...cks-SRSwet.jpg
This came up, so I will mention it here. I will also continue to add info on how different tuning adjustments affect the car.
How do the 25/5 (DE) front kickup compare to the 20/10 (Stock) front kick up?
Originally Posted by Casper:
The 25/5 setup has a little more steering and seems to be a little better all around.
It doesn't just give you more steering.... Kickup only affects how easily weight transfers through to the front suspension arms, which will only affect off-power steering. Remember, some settings/changes affect static steering (steering on, off, and neutral power), some settings/changes affect only on-power steering, and some settings/changes affect only OFF-power steering.
So in short, 25/5 will give you more off-power steering than 20/10 will. It wont affect nuetral power steering, or on-power steering. Total caster will, however. If you want your backend to kick around a little more, then run 25/5. If you need more rear-end stability when braking, run 20/10.
Spring Rates: Thanks for this chart Jeremy!
6. Completing Your Ride
Lipos: In rear motor, almost any 1/10 pack will fit. Standard stick packs, saddle packs, and the new shorty 96mm lipos. In mid motor, only saddle packs and the short 96mm pack will fit. The short 96mm packs are ideal in both configurations because of their low weight, small size, and small amount of wires. Losi and Venom are currently the only two companies to offer the short 96mm 2s 60C 3800mah packs. The Losi pack has been proven to be excellent, and venom lipos have always been very high quality and a good value.
Shorty Pack Battery Position: A good place to start for the battery position is 1 pad laid down+ one pad standing up in front of the battery for rear motor configuration.
Venom Shorty Pack:
http://www.venom-group.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=15064
Losi Shorty Pack:
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...d=596&id=10735
Motors: Pretty Much any brushless 540 motor will work!
ESC: The 22 can provide some challenges to fit all of your electronics in under the body, but in the end it actually makes for a very clean install. I have yet to come across an ESC that doesn’t fit, even my old Novak GTB esc with its huge purple heatsink fits on the ESC tray in rear motor config. I highly suggest using the ESC mounting positions designed by TLR, they are there for a reason. The Tekin RS ESCs are prefect for this car, as they are small, run very cool, and allow you to solder the wires on as you please. Most of the LRP ESC’s also work very well.
Servos: Any 1/10 servos will fit, however some of the larger ones can leave a small amount of space for the receiver. Some excellent low profile servos are the Spektrum S6070 servo, and the Savox SC-1251MG servo.
Spektrum S6070:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Surface-Servo
Savox SC-1251:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...tal-Gear-Servo
Receivers: Pretty much, the smaller the better. The older Spektrum SR300, SR300, and SR3001 receivers will only fit on their side or diagonally with large servos like the JR 9100s. (Here is a picture of my SR3001 receiver with the very large JR 9100s servo)
Transponder: As you can see in the previous picture, an AMB transponder fits perfectly on top of the servo.
Body Velcro: Instead of using the body mounts, use velcro instead to secure the body. It leaves no holes in your body that can crack, and allows easy body installation and removal. Here is a picture (the velcro is white):
Setting Your Steering: Now that you have installed everything, it is time to set your steering. With the steering arm one click to the right, and both the steering turnbuckles the same length (pointing straight ahead) Adjust the small steering turnbuckle (which we cut the ball cups earlier) until the wheels point as close to straight ahead as possible when the steering servo is on and centered. (To see if the steering is pointing straight ahead, lightly hold the ball cup onto the balls stud) When you complete this, snap the ball cup on. Now, with your EPA set to max on both sides, turn the wheel all the way to the right. The servo will probably start making noise, this is normal. Wiggle both wheels when the steering is at full throw. Now, slowly start backing the EPA off. Keep going, until there starts to be a little slop in one or both wheels. Then, add more epa, so there is no slop again. Then do maybe 2 more clicks than 0 slop from that point to be on the safe side. Repeat with the left side, and your steering is set! Use the trim option on your menu to make the wheels point exactly straight if they are a little off center.
Conclusion:
I would like to thank everyone who helped contribute the information for this guide, and I hope it will answer all of your questions. I will continue to update and change the information, and it should save you from reading through 400+ pages of info. And most importantly, thank you Dan and TLR for making a rockin buggy!
And of course, the result of all of this knowledge!
Paint Courtesy of Roly of RC3 Grafix!
7. The Log!
Every time I update the guide, I will add what, when, and where it was changed. Thanks for the tip Steve!
1. April 27th: Added "The Log"
2. April 28th: Added BFAST Diff Page and Part #s Section 2
3. April 29th: Added Team Driver "Blue Screw's" Tips to Section 1
4. April 30th: Added Turnbuckle Assembly details Section 2
5. May 2nd: Added Slipper Details Section 2
6. May 4th: Added Jeremy's Spring Rate Chart Section 5
7. May 9th: Added Chris' B4.1 and XXX-CR Wheel Adapter