3. Problems
Wheel Nuts Keep Falling Off! The Solution:
A: Loctite them each time you take them off, once it dries, it will provide resistance on the threads. Tighten them as much as you can (Don’t go overboard)
B: Get a very long M3 Screw, and thread it all the way through the axle to the other side of the wheel. Use a nylon locknut to secure the wheel, with a washer underneath it.
Rear Outdrive driveshaft pin keeps sliding out. The solution: Call Horizon up, this is a defect, and should be replaced. Until then, put some CA glue or green threadlock in the slot, and recenter the pin.
Stripped screw: This is probably due to using crappy wrenches or an electric wrench. The solution: Get a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel. Dremel a small slot into the head of the screw, and then use a flathead screwdriver to unscrew it.
Missing a Part? Call Horizon!
Diff is Gritty after one run: Rebuild it, with new diff balls and flip the rings.
Diff Doesn’t seem to tighten all the way (with stock diff nut): Replace it with the AE diff nut and screw.
Slipper keeps slipping, even thought it’s tightened all the way down: Add a small spacer between the spring and slipper plate. This allows the screw to get full compression and you can adjust it properly.
4. Mods and Upgrades:
Honestly, the car doesn’t need much. But there are always those who will tinker.
Battery Hold Down: Don’t like Velcro? Well there are easy ways around it.
A: Diggity Designs makes a nice premade kit, but it is a little expensive and uses screws.
http://www.diggitydesigns.com/D3_Los...teryStrap.html
B: My own Design and idea for it:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9000437-post5608.html
C: You can use the B4 battery hold down, along with the losi front steering inserts, and some screws like this:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/8988921-post5406.html
Rear Wider Hexes: In order to run Dustin Evan’s setup, you need to add 2mm to the hexes in the rear, to add width to the car. Now, after some testing, the widest hexes you can use with the stock wheel nuts are 5.6mm, which is 1.8mm wider. Do not go any wider with the stock wheel nuts, as the axle won’t reach the nylon part of the nut.
Losi offers aluminum hubs, in plus .75mm, 1mm, and 1.5mm. Personally, I would not spend $13 on them. Instead, pick up these traxxas hubs. They are a perfect fit, they do have a small lip on the back by the pin (just raised around the slot) When you shave that lip off, they are an exact 5.6mm, which is the widest you can go. Cost $2 as well, so you can order 3 sets and sand them to various desired widths.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...xle-Pin-Collar
You can also run the full +2mm rear hexes (Traxxas ones work perfect, no sanding needed) when using these locknuts:
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...ns&pn=TRX1747R
Chassis Protector: Want to protect your nice new aluminum chassis?
Chassis Tape works well, but it is very hard to punch holes in the correct places, so if you have to remove a screw the whole thing has to come off. Same with the Upgrade RC wrap.
Fastlane Graphix offers a nice one with precut holes. Upgrade's protector is thicker than Fastlane. For both Upgrade and Fastlane, you can choose and design a wrap from many colors and schemes.
Upgrade RC:
http://www.rcidcustom.com/mm5/mercha...ory_Code=RCD41
Fastlane Graphix:
http://shop.fastlanegear.com/
TLR Upgrades: TLR has a host of upgrades for the cars, such as aluminum front and rear hubs, titanium turnbuckles, and an aluminum steering rack. TLR also offers an aluminum diff nut, which will also solve problems with the stock one. However, you will be paying $15 for one that is still harder to put together and will work the same as the $2 AE one. Your choice. You can see them on this page:
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ickAccessories
Nice Tools: TLR offers some nice tools for this kit, and one shines in particular. It is a diff adjustment tool, that allows you to tighten or loosen the diff without popping off any turnbuckles. IMHO, it is a must have for any 1/10 vehicle.
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...=1014&id=11383
They also have a nice aluminum shock tool set, but it isn’t really needed.
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...=1014&id=11015
Their Metric Tool set is well worth the money.
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=LOSA99109
Dynamite offers a nice set of Cheap Nut Drivers. They work very well, I use them myself.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Nut-Driver-Set
Losi’s ride height gage works fine if you don’t already have one. I Particularly like the ride height gage, because it works on all of my vehicles, both 1/10 and 1/8. I use the RPM monster camber gauge for the same reason, and it works just as well with both 1/10 and 1/8 vehicles. Most camber and ride height gages will work just fine as well.
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=846&id=7311
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=846&id=9361
Bodies: Currently, your only options for bodies are the stock Losi ones and FTW’s cab forward bodies sold at Avidrc.com. I’m sure many other companies will soon add their interpretations to the list, and it is confirmed JCONCEPTS will be coming out with a punisher body for it soon.
Stock:
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...=1014&id=11068
FTW Vane:
http://www.avidrc.com/product/18/bod...es-by-ftw.html
FTW Blade:
http://www.avidrc.com/product/18/bod...es-by-ftw.html
Wings: Any 1/10th buggy wing will work, so you can experiment with different types. The stock wing comes with small nipples to show you where to ream the holes. These holes work perfect for the midmotor config. However, most pros have been running their wings forward towards the shock tower, like most other 1/10 wings. (In the rear motor position). The reason being the rear motor shock tower is so much farther forward than the mid motor. Here is a picture of Dustin Evan’s wing to show you what I mean:
Wheels: If you were one of the many to switch from the XXX-CR to the 22, chances are you have an arsenal of wheels and tires for the XXX-CR. You’re in luck, sort of. TLR was kind enough to include two sets of front and rear wheels in the box, which I give two big thumbs up to. It should keep you busy for a few weeks minimum until more wheels become available. If you find you need more wheels, you can use your old XXX-CR rear wheels on the buggy if you take the hex off to leave the spacer and pin. However, you cannot use the XXX-CR fronts. Losi 4wd fronts will work as temporary replacements. Keep in mind the 4wd fronts are slightly wider.
XXX-CR Rear wheels:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...heels-Yellow-2
Losi 4wd Fronts:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...heels-Yellow-2
Chris Has also come up with a great little part that allows you to use either B4.1 or XXX-CR rear wheels and attain the +2mm Dustin Evan's setup calls for!
Quote: If anyone wants to run there old b4 or xxx rims I had some spacers made to accomplish that. You can get them and see more pictures
here
These push the wheels out 2mm like Evans setup, but you need to use the serrated nuts, but guys have had good luck running regular 4mm nylon nuts backwards, this works with the wider traxxas hexes or spacers and the stock 22 rims too.
