THE DIFF!
(It’s so important it gets its own sub-section)
The Diff used in this car is roughly the same as the one AE has used for years, but the big difference is it used 14 main diff balls. IF you build, set, and break in the diff correctly, it will be the best and smoothest diff you will ever own.
-Diff Rings: These are fantastic right out of the kit, and already sanded.
-Main Gear, bearings, and Outdrives: All are excellent
-Thrust Balls: They work fine, but can be replaced for ceramic balls.
Diff Nut and Screw: To avoid problems, I highly suggest simply getting the associated diff nut and screw (you must use them together) Part number: ASC6575
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=280&id=5639
Main Diff balls: I believe that there were some quality control problems with these, as a few have been able to build their diffs with them without any problems. However, even experienced racers have built super smooth diffs, only to have them gritty after one run. The balls seem to be made of swiss cheese. To solve this problem, get some new carbide main diff balls. BFAST makes excellent ones, and they already come in a kit of 14. AE also has good ones, but they come in kits of 12 so you will have to buy two sets for 14 balls. It has been discussed, and many agree that getting carbide main diff balls and ceramic thrust balls is the way to go. BFAST offers and excellent kit for the 22 with ceramic thrust balls and carbide main diff balls, which IMHO, is the best option out there right now. All BFAST does is specialize in diffs, and they are good at it!
BFAST Diff Parts (You need BD14 and CTB65, but not the BFAST rings as the kit ones are excellent):
http://www.bfastrc.com/tlr.html
Grease: AE’s Clear and Black Diff grease has been they way to go forever, and still is. Dustin Evans was kind enough to help me build my diff, and he went right for my AE grease to build it. When building, line the small channel under the diff rings with the clear grease to prevent them from slipping. Push the rings down, and wipe away the excess grease. Put a little clear grease on a plastic bag, and drop the main balls into it, coating each one. Then, using an exacto knife with a drop of clear grease on the tip, pick up each ball and place it into the little slots in the main gear. After putting all of the balls in, put a “small” dab of clear grease on each ball. Don’t over due it! For the thrust, use a hearty amount of black grease, and wipe of the excess. Put the washer on the screw, then some black grease on the washer, and then plop each of the 6 diff balls onto the grease. Then put the 2nd washer on top, with some more black grease, and using your finger, wipe away the excess grease around it.
Now, insert the screw into the female outdrive, and follow the kit directions. When tightening the screw, don’t tighten it all the way, and leave it loose. Install it into the car, and set it later once you have finished the build.
When you are done with the build, pop a ballcup off and tighten the diff little by little, until it is tight, but not gritty. If you haven’t done it before, go to your local track and find someone who know what they are doing, and have them help you do this and break it in. to break it in, put on wheel on the table, holding it, with the other in the air. Keep it like this, spin the wheel at ¼ throttle for 3-4 minutes, and repeat on the other side. After this, retighten the diff until it is smooth, but not gritty. Again, I highly suggest that you get the help of an expert or someone who knows what they are doing at the track if you do not or have not built a ball diff before!
Rear End Continued:
Tranny: If you run on a low dust indoor clay track, put a dab of black grease on the tranny gears to lightly coat them. If you run on a super dusty outdoor track, leave it dry. For rear motor, the diff should be inserted with the screw facing the drivers (left) side. For Mid motor, it should be facing the right passenger side. When putting the case together, put a drop of threadlock on the motor plate screw holes. Then, tighten the screws sot hey are just snug. Overtightening can cause binding.
Slipper: Add a small spacer between the spring and slipper plate. This allows the screw to get full compression and you can adjust it properly. The replacement springs are longer, and will fix the problem as well. Part # TLR2964 The spacer should be 3-5mm. IMO I would personally use a spacer no matter what, even if the spring is long enough, as there is plenty of space.
Setting the slipper: Start pretty loose to start. Do this after setting your diff. You always want the slipper to slip before the diff. Holding one rear wheel on the table with your hand, and the other rear wheel with the base of your radio, give a quick stab of full throttle. It should slip as you are starting with it loose. Keep tightening the nut until the front does a small wheelie (Not all the way). Your slipper is now perfect.
Gearing: the Gearing Chart is a good place to start
Shocks:
From Matt C and some tips I learned from building mine:
Bottom Cap:
I always use a little AE green slime on the bottom oring chamber and on the orings and spacers themselves. This helps prevent leaking. When inserting the middle spacer between the orings, make sure that you can see the little lip on the inside of the plastic spacer with the top of the shock on the table. When inserting the shock shaft, make sure the bottom cap is loose, and put a little shock oil on the shock threads to prevent ripping the orings. Once the shaft is inserted, tighten the bottom cap all the way down (Matt recommended this).
Pistons: Use a fine sand paper (200-300) and carefully sand away the little mold tabs on the side of the pistons. Go slowly and don't overdo it. The piston should not make a squeaky noise when in the dry shock body.
Now, fill the shock almost up to the top with oil, and work the piston up and down to remove air bubbles. Then, let the shock sit for 10 or so minutes to let all the bubbles float to the top.
With Bladders: Now, starting on one side, slowly push the bladder down to properly seat it. There should be enough oil in the shock that a little comes out when doing this. Hold the bladder down lightly, slowly push the shock shaft up until it almost touches the bladder, but doesn't. More oil should come out. Here's the secret: Making sure the bladder is still fully seated, pull the shaft out to about 1/3 its length. This should suction the bladder in a little bit, and will prevent the bladder from coming unseated while screwing the top cap on. Screw the cap on until you meet resistance, and then unscrew it a turn or so. Push the shaft up to about 1/4 its length, and screw the cap all the way down. Do this a few times until you get as little rebound as possible. A little rebound is ok though.
Without Bladders: Building the shocks with the bladders cut allows the shocks to become emulsion shocks. You want as little rebound as possible with these. The TLR team reports that doing this allows the buggy to land better. Here is a video of Mike Truhe building them emulsion style:
http://www.rccaraction.com/blog/2011...om-mike-truhe/