Got this from RCTECH and is a very detailed guide for the 22
Thanks to Muggydude for all the hard work.
The Team Losi Racing 22 Guide!
Everything and anything you will want to know about your new 22, the most (R)evolutionary 1/10 buggy that’s a result of eating, breathing, and sleeping RC for the past 30 years. Please feel free to send me comments and suggestions to add to it!
Index:
1. Build Tips From the Experts
2. The Build
3. Problems you May Experience, and What to do
4. Custom Mods, and Upgrades
5. Pro Setups & Sheets
6. Completing Your Ride
7. The Log
1. Build Tips From the Experts.
I have been lucky enough to talk to Dustin Evans and Matt Chambers, and Dyno Dan (the designer of the buggy) has also been so kind as to answer questions on this forum, as well as Casey Peck, Casper, Frank Root, and other TLR drivers and experts. Their Opinions and Tips are sprinkled throughout the guide.
Dyno Dan’s Personal Tips on the build:
22 Build Tips:
1) Place 1 small drop of CA glue on Diff nut before inserting into plastic T-nut. Use a 1.5mm wrench or .050" as a "Skewer" to hold the nut while inserting into the plastic nut. Place locknut with nylon facing upward and insert 1.5mm wrench onto nylon portion. This allows you to easily place nut into plastic T-nut.
2) Do not over tighten Diff Screw!!!!!!!. Snug the screw down until spring is collapsed, and then back off 1/16th turn
3) Always put a small amount of Silicone diff grease between diff rings and outdrives.
4) Do not forget the RED spacer the goes on the input shaft before installing the slipper plates. Why Red? A Red spacer means that it is a transmission part not to be confused with the other spacers. I thought it would help identify spacers since there are so many that are close in size.
5) Be careful when tightening down all king pin screws. The kingpin screw has a small radius on the underside of the screw head. Do not over tighten and putting a small chamfer (using a hobby knife or other tool) is recommended.
6) Turn Buckles: Use a body reamer to knock off flashing to help thread engagement.
7) Shocks: The lower cap can be loosened up to 1.5 turns to adjust friction in the O-rings. A neat adjustment!
8) Placing a very small amount of locktite between rear inner hinge pin/hinge pin ball/aluminum pivots is a good way to keep the tolerances like new.
9) Do not forget the M3 screw hidden under the rear shock tower that goes into the rear camber block!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
10) Apply blue locktite to the front wheel screw for the first couple of wheel changes. This will allow the locktite to accumulate and act like a locknut.
11) The small screw that fastens the rear toe plate pivot to the chassis is meant to keep the rear suspension in place while removing the transmission for diff service. There is no need to remove the motor guard (rear motor config.) when removing the transmission. Remove trans mount screws and simply pull the motor guard back and remove transmission, leaving motor guard in place.
12) Servo alignment / tie rod / End Point Adjustment is very critical. The 22 has the most steering throw of any buggy. It is not uncommon to end up with very high EPA settings!!!!
I hope you all enjoy the build! Please ask any questions and I hope this info helps!
Casey Peck was so Kind as to Post a 22 build walk trough with pictures! Enjoy.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...walk-thru.html