Quote:
Originally Posted by Halcalanky
always use a skylight and and protect your nice filter or lens! Skylights don't lose you any light too.
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Then there's the flipside of the argument - why buy well designed optical-grade glass with low dispersion elements and special multicoatings, only to then go and screw a cheap piece of flat glass on the front?
I only say this after I recently dropped a lens
Whilst the UV filter took the brunt of the impact and broke it didn't save the lens and I had to make an insurance claim - who ironically refuse to pay for a replacement filter!
When the repaired/replaced lens comes I won't be bothering with a UV and the increased risk of ghosting and flare and also the reduced contrast it can bring.
As for Coopers' original question, Jimmy has provided the correct explanation. Those dark trees are fooling the camera into raising the exposure, which then has insufficient dynamic range to capture the really bright areas properly. A polariser might help an otherwise 'normal' scene with some bright glare, but not really with large shadow areas.
If you don't fancy going full manual and your camera has different metering modes, how about trying centre-weighted or even spot metering rather than matrix/evaluative? This will bias the camera's exposure judgement towards the subject in frame rather than conditions on the periphery.