Definately "tap" all the threads on the chassis and the four in the bottom of the rear shock tower, it will make for an easier build process and rebuilding in the future.
Assemble the diff in the "B" forward position.
Cut off the outer VLA hole on the rear wishbones, to stop any chance of them catching the wheels.
If you plan to run a one-way, then definately upgrade the front driveshafts to CVD's or LCD's, as the standard shafts won't stand the forces involved with running a one-way
Make sure you set the slipper correctly before you run it. You should have about 2-3 feet of slip. This will vastly improve the belt life.
We don't really have a problem these days with battery duration, but back in the day it was always the "en vogue" thing to run-in the car for a few hours. Best thing was to use a Tamiya 540 motor, but any slow(ish) motor will do and just stand the car up off the ground and let her run. As I said it was a thing that was done back in the day, but I still like to do it now. It helps free up all the transmission, and a smoother free'r running car has to be a good thing.
Use the standard UK set-up, which can easily be found in the set-up thread.
If you get stuck, feel free to ask for help.
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