Diffs and slipper adjustment
Hi guys,
I gave my D4 some runs today and here's what I've found:
The bad:
The first race my rear standard diff bolt broke. I read about that here on the forum but my car was already put together and I decided to give it a try. The second race I ended up with a slipping front diff. I tried to adjust that but by doing that, the bolt broke as well. I replaced both the bolts by Associated diff bolts. The 3rd battery was quiet OK, but I thought it would be a good idea to loosen the slipper clutch after that run. This slipper clutch is pretty critical and cannot be tested or adjusted easily. At least not in a way that I know of. This is the way I do it now: I take the driveline apart (remove the alu part on top of the motor mount), take the slipper out, adjust the clutch, put the driveline together and give it a try...
It took 4 tries before I felt is was set right.
After loosening the slipper I gave the car a 4th pack resulting in another broken Associated diff screw.
Conclusion: 4 packs, 3 diff screws. Besides that, setting the slipper cannot be done easily.
Here comes the gooed news:
Apart from the problems, I found that the car was really good around the track. I think my Inside Jobs weren't all that great in forward traction on our local track, but I will have to wait for the 61499 Losi converters to run other tyres... The basic setup is pretty good actually. I would recommend 35-40WT up front and 30WT on the back end of the car. The manual tells you to run 30WT in all dampers.
Gr,
Michael
BTW: Our track is 50% clay (with a pretty loose surface) and 50% carpet which makes is difficult to find the best tyre. On a 2WD we normally use Big Shots or Medial Pro Crysp.
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