part 8: Gearbox ...
next comes the motorplate. It is a fine machine part of aluminium.
A first fitting:
It needs one countersunk screw on the front side and the three original gearboxscrews on the other side.
Fabs assured me that they didn't need hard tightening, so I didn't.
next are the Hingepin-holders.
On the RB5, there is a little part extruding (is this the correct word?) on the T-bar on which the inner hingepin-holder fits.
As there is no such extrusion on the metal T-bar, Fabs provided two very slim carbon shims. One to use and one spare
Fabs also told me I might mount the Hingepinholders 1mm high with the aid of some shims, just as a setup-tip for an astrotruf-type track on which we would be running the next day.
The inner hingepinholder with the carbon shim:
And here is a mounting tip:
First screw one screw in (with the blue 1mm shim), then add the carbon shim, and then screw in the second screw and tighten them both.
!3 !! Later on I discovered I also had to remove some material on this inner hingepinholder, so please first read on before building.
Next is the outer Rear hingepinholder. I used a blue aluminium one on my RB5, but this needs some "adjustment".
This part also needs to be mounted on a (provided) carbon shim ... + the extra 1mm-shims to mount the hingepin 1mm higher on the T-bar
On the next picture, you can see what has to altered. It just needs some filing, to take away some curved edges. With a strong file, it took me about 20 seconds, ... no biggy
The result can be seen in the next 2 pictures:
... so next I was ready to mount it on the T-bar, using some red 1mm shims (I ran out of blue ones, lol )
on this previous picture, you will also notice the extra slim carbon shim.
back on the !3 !!
As stated higher, in order to be able to mount the gear box, i needed to remove some material of the inner Hingepinholder.
This part needs to have a flat side and in stead , has some bumps.
On the next picture you see the same part with one of the two bumps allready shaved (filed) away on one side.
I filed away the other bump and mounted it on the T-bar again