Quote:
Originally Posted by spiro
Alright, I've gone and done it. Sold my Novak HV Pro setup, and placed the final order for Tekin ESC/motor yesterday. Setup as of one week from now:
Hobao Hyper 9E
Tekin RX8
Tekin T8 1900 KV
2x Hyperion G3 VX - 4S 6500mAh
Futaba BLS351
I'll let everyone know how the Tekin bits performs compared to the Novak HV Pro setup. Hope to see the 1:8th E class grow into an actual raceclass soon.
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Ya Novak HV 6.5 was my first system and while it was fast I burned out 1 motor and 3 ESCs. Fans had to be on all the time or it was toast where I live (hot).
Hyper 9Es rock, you should like that combo you listed there. Your lipo packs are bit huge but heck you'll last a long time. With that much weight and if especially if you are hard on the throttle you do risk spinning a rotor with tekin. I run lighter 3700mah packs and I green threadlock or super glue my tekin rotors when they are new and I dont have any problems. In your case do that too when you get your tekin. green threadlock or (very fine) super glue your rotor by letting it seep into any cracks around the magnet and the main axle of the rotor. Dont get any on the bushings or ends that slip into bearings. then red (small amounts) or blue thread lock all the endbell screws just to be safe.
Motors do run cooler when you use lighter packs or smaller pinions. With that big of a pack watch your temps and consider running smaller pinions to ease the load and bring temps down. Tekin does run cooler than most. I run between 13-17T and 120-150deg F motor and 2-3 lights on my RX8 (125-140deg F) depending on the track. You dont want to run more than 5 lights on your RX8 (onboard heat indicator) and/or 170F on your motor*, 200deg F motor limit is wrong.
*motors can be 50Deg F hotter at the core of the rotor than they are on the outside of the can so a 170degF temp gun reading on the outside can be 220Deg F in the middle of the rotor which is thermal breakdown temperatures for glues and resins both on the rotor and in the windings of the can. A 200deg F motor on the outside could be 250deg F in the inside! Way over heated. You risk spinning your rotor, demagnetizing it, damaging your can or any electronics on the small motherboard inside these motors that control sensored activity, on ANY brand of motor.
Dont mean to spoof you there spiro, but I want you to run without incident and learn off my mistakes.
