Quote:
Originally Posted by DoughtyUK.net
sometimes camber change is a good thing, I have found that there is an 'optimum' lenght for suspension arms and that is less than 'longest'
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All depends on where you're moving from and by how much, but by controlling the amount of change in camber you get by having longer links you can tune everything else more finely, some camber change is a good thing as when the suspension moves into droop position during lateral load transfer the wheels camber negatively slightly and that helps the wheel that needs it most (outside one) get the most possible contact patch while the body rolls without having it cambered in a straight line which would lose you a little straight line speed.
Ideally you should use a longer top and bottom link to obtain the same geometry you would get using a shorter arm to get the same camber change with less track with change, which we don't have the luxury of doing generally with RC cars, but this 'ideal' setup also ends up with a car with amazing cornering power but all the stability of weak jelly in an earthquake zone that no one without absolutely perfect precision and reflexes can drive... at the end of the day, the best setup is the one
you can drive fastest really.
Also tire scrub I thought was any time that the tire is moving at a slower/faster speed than the car/ground underneath it? i.e steering with a locked differential with bad ackerman settings. Wheels moving in and out I'd express as "a change in track width"
I'm doing motorsport engineering next year at uni and been doing my background research
hence the knowledge (or lack) of it and that's what i understand of it, feel free to correct though
/essay end
edit in response to prev post: everything you can do to your car is a compromise really, never ever get something for nothing (even if you go from running on 3 wheels to 4, more drag !)