Sorry.. Can't really help you with this. But I came across a great article at RCtech.
Here's some of the key info:
"Steering turnbuckle inner ball ends: Shave those puppies down till you can see the balls. If you run the grey ones, you really have to dremel those down until it almost turns into a eye instead of a cup. I found that even after trimming mine, at full lock, the inside one was still catching. I shaved it down much further and upped my EPA and got crazy amounts of low speed steering. If your car is hurting for low speed steering, check here FIRST. Pop the upper chassis plate off and turn full lock and see if you're binding on the outdrive of the front tranny. I have also found that setting your EPAs so it flexes the servo saver a bit really helps hold that inner wheel at its most extreme angle. Increase your epa until you have reasonable resistance when trying to straighten your inner wheel -- i.e. don't let it be floppy by setting your EPAs just off of binding, you will lose steering."
"I've been going back and fourth on front sway for a while -- our track owner has been giving me grief on that for weeks! If I ran the shocks middle top and middle bottom, the car was good, but really needed the sway in the high speed corners or it would roll a lot on hard corners. If I moved the shocks out on the bottom, and in on the top (like what Tebo runs), the progressiveness lets the front be soft for good steering, yet firm up under hard cornering and the sway is not needed at all (which also contributes to low speed steering) but the car was way too unforgiving on jumps because of the reduced droop in the front. Tebo had the answer, which made me feel like a tard for not thinking of -- he runs the fronts with the shock eye unscrewed about 4 turns out. Whala -- front end is perfect. I also went back to the factory yellow springs in the front (what Tebo was running) -- I was running oranges, and they worked well, but the yellows are stiffer and I didn't notice any decrease in low speed steering, so perhaps more high speed stability can be had with the yellows over the oranges -- should prevent more roll at speed."
"A note on the shock eyes -- the manual shows you lengths from the eye to shock base. If you screw the eyes in all the way, you will be shorter than you're supposed to be. Measure with a set of calipers to be right on. Tebo said that he thought he was running the rears screwed all the way in. In the end, I was running with them at the length the manual specified (I think that was around 3 turns out from bottom on the eye, not sure). I tried them screwed all the way in and at manual length and to be honest -- there wasn't a difference I could tell in the rear like the front. I left them at manual length in the mounting positions the manual called for."
"I'd like to note that I'm now running 2mm of limiting in the rear shocks on my fs (two 1 mm limiters on each side) with the shock eyes screwed all the way into the shafts. This has made a dramatic difference on our small indoor track with its long smooth sweeper corners and ultra tacky conditions. Without the limiting the car would traction roll easily and I really had to take it slow in the sweepers whenever the track became really sticky."
Just thought perhaps some of you were also new to some of this intel...
