Happy to help
The Durga body has always been a tough one to find spares of.. I ended up ordering a spare from Tamiya directly since I live in the USA. Problem is, they won't ship outside the USA? I wonder if Tamiya realizes how much more business they could get shipping outside the US.. I think it has something to do with trade agreements between the different Tamiya HQ's, but I feel for everyone that needs a certain part and no other vendor stocks it..
There was a time when Kamtech was selling a repro Durga body to curb the problem of getting one in the UK etc.. Tamiya unfortunately came down on Kamtech like a ton of bricks because they were reproducing a body for a 'production' vehicle as opposed to a discontinued 'vintage' vehicle. Kamtech had to stop producing the Durga repro body because of it.
Unfortunately I am not sure which vendors carry spare Durga bodies. Hopefully another Oople member might know..
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So far I have not found any wrap around motor coolers/heatsinks that will fit with the Durga body attached (even the Baldre body would be a tight fit). I think that is why Tamiya made the motor heatsink plate for the DB-01. The hop-up motor mount and heatsink plate combo works really good - you will get better cooling with those parts than you would a wrap around motor heatsink (except for ones that use a fan, but they won't fit).
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The TRF511/DB-01 wing set is excellent. I prefer it over the stock DB-01 wing.. Wings will always get beat up while racing, but it is the better one to have..
The front wing does help on the track.. I race on a hard pack dirt track and the front wing helps to stabilize the front end a little better allowing for better steering control.. Try taking some low speed and high speed turns with and without the front wing and you should notice a difference.. It is much more obvious when you are running on a loose surface like dirt and is less noticeable when running on a high traction surface like asphalt or tarmac.
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I have covered gearing for the DB-01 in the past and can help target optimal gearing for your setup depending on what motor you are running. Different motor manufacturers are either very open or very stingy with their motor specs.. The more information you have, the better we can target gearing.. Novak seems to be one of the best when it comes to motor spec information. I believe you run a Hobbywing EZ-Run 5.5T brushless.. I know they use different specs than Novak, unfortunately I have not been able to find any recommendations from Hobbywing to cover a recommended gear ratio for their motors.. We can borrow information from the Novak specs to get us started. It won't be exactly right for your motor, but it should get us close.
Get ready for a detailed description. Here is an example I wrote to target optimal gearing for the DB-01:
Gearing works by targeting the optimum gear ratio to complement the motor you are running - this results in maximum motor performance without stressing or overheating your motor.. It's kind of like finding your cars "Chi"
There is the long (all math) way, and there is the short (gearchart.com) way.. I will cover the easier -gearchart.com- method here.. If you want the long math way I can give it to you, but it is less fun.. Also, if you want to know how I got some of these numbers/ratios please feel free to ask.
This will help you target the -sweet spot- for gearing so you can get the most out of your motor without overheating...
NOTE: The most important thing to make this work is that you have a good idea what your motor "RPM" is and also what the target "Gear Ratio" is for your motor. High end companies like Novak provide this information (as do other brushless motor manufacturers). I found it harder to find this info for brushed motors...
Lets get started with a "real world" example for my Durga when I ran a Novak 17.5 brushless for Novice and Stock racing:
1. First lets go to
www.gearchart.com and click "Gearchart Creator" on the upper left side of the screen
2. The "Select an RC Car" pulldown menu does not have the Durga, DB01, etc.. So select "Pan Car (10/12th scale)" and we will fill in the blanks
3. The "Transmission Ratio" is 2.055.. It is the same for "ALL" DB-01 cars.
4. Next enter your "Spur" and "Pinion" sizes.. I switched to an 81T Spur gear and 31T Pinion gear when I installed my 17.5 Novak since it was better suited for the slower motor
5. The "Plot Spur/Pinion" option with the "Middle" setting is fine.
6. Now click the "Gear Ratio" button.. The chart it builds will have key information to see if you will -burn up the track- (yeah) or -burn up your motor- (bummer).
7. In my case I needed to know what Novak recommended as the Gear Ratio for my motor.. I went onto Novak's website and pulled up their gearing recommendations:
http://www.teamnovak.com/tech_info/b...r_gearing.html
8. It showed that a 4WD (my Durga) should target a "6" (or 6.00) gear ratio with their 17.5 motor.. My Spur and Pinion combo put me at "5.37" so I was a little overgeared for their spec.. I wanted to push my motor a little bit for more speed, so this seemed fairly safe for a shorter 5min runs.. If I wanted to be right on spec with the Novak chart, then I would gear down to a 28T Pinion since that would be "5.94" which is super close to 6.00..
Ok, so this told me that I'm not likely to turn my motor into a -molten ball of fire- by pushing it too hard.. Now I wanted to get a ballpark on how fast my car might go..
9. The next part was "Rollout".. Rollout tells you how far your car will travel per motor revolution.. My Tire Diameter (measurement from one side of the tire to the other) was 85mm. It will likely be the same for you and most tires you will run..
10. Keep the "Increment" setting at "1mm" and click the "Rollout" button
11. I got "49.73", yipee!! What the heck does that mean.. Well, its telling me my Durga has the potential to travel 49.73mm every time the motor completes one revolution. That's about 1.9 inches.. This isn't too exciting yet, but it will help us get our MPH in the end..
12. The last part was the "Motor RPM".. This is important and requires as little guessing as possible to get an accurate number.. I consulted the "Novak Brushless Motor Spec Chart" to figure this out:
http://www.teamnovak.com/products/br...spec_chart.htm
13. The chart says that I am running 2200Kv (or RPM per volt) for my 17.5 motor. I'm using a 7.4v lipo, so I multiplied 2200 * 7.4 to get "16280" which is my max RPM.
14. I entered 16280 as my RPM and clicked "MPH".. The chart showed I had the potential to go 30.2 MPH.. Not bad for a 17.5 Brushless running with pretty safe gearing..
It worked well on the track and the motor did not heat up very much after each 5min run.. In reality, your car will not go quite as fast as the charts say because they do not account for weight, track conditions, friction, etc.. Most lipo batteries will give you an extra kick though because they can discharge at rates higher than NiMH can - i.e. Team Orion 3800Mah lipo has a 30C discharge rate.
Hopefully this will help take some of the guesswork out of your gearing.. If you get any strange results, please let me know. I will be happy to double check your results.
P.S. It's a little know fact, but you can buy multiple spur gears for the DB-01. I have run 3 different spurs myself..
Tamiya used the Kimbrough spur design for the DB-01. Tamiya only made the 91T stock spur, however you can buy the Associated Kimbrough Spur Gears which are a direct fit (78T, 81T, 84T and 87T).. No need to change the number of shims or the slipper pads when you reassemble the layshaft.. I ran different spurs to target optimum gearing for the slower 17.5T and 13.5T motors.. Here are some links:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEAK5&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEAK4&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEAK3&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEAK2&P=7
Hope this helps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ignition
Hey, thanks for the info !
I locked the reardiff, ehm whats the right word ... ehh, till I got my Ceramic diff balls and TRF 501X diff Joints 
It's just for testing (and adjusting) my 5,5T brushless motor on the road (big parkinglot, so i'm just driving in a straight line) so i guess, it's not a big problem ?
I think i'm ordering a Durga body with the diff joints and stuff to cut holes in for extra cooling, but they are hard to find, I normaly order my stuff at RcMart, but they only have the Bladre body, and I don't like that one so much 
I searched at several webshops, but can't find it
About the cooling, the 'cooling plate' you said in your post, I got one, but it won't fit (after I got it, i researched (too late AGAIN ... ) and saw it won't fit) but I'll mod it so it will fit.
About the motor cool things that you 'wrap' arround your motor, do I have to buy one with a fan on it (if they really excist  ), or just wrap a motor cooler around the motor ?
Oh yeah, I wanted to buy a Low-Mount spoilerset, because my spoiler is cracked (still need to tape it  ), does the front spoiler have any effect on the handling ?
I've seen it on some really pro-chassis, and it looks cool, but i'm just curious 
About the gearing, I drive with a stock spur (91T) and a 23T Pinion, but I can't find on any site something about a recomended gear-ratio.
But I guess my ratio is too high, but I don't know wich pinion I have to buy 
BigBig Thnx !
P.S.
Sorry about my English, I hope you all know what I mean ? |