I don't understand how people melt their gears. Perhaps we are talking about the two variants:
DF-03
vs.
DF-03MS
???
I've been running my DF-03MS with a Castle Mamba Max + 4600Kv since I've bought it. Only recently have I switched over to the Hobbywing Ezrun 60A V2 + 4300Kv motor...
I have yet to melt any diffs, gears, or bust the idlers. This is after running this for about a year. 7 to 12 packs over the weekends...
The biggest key to keeping your drivetrain intact, even with the hottest brushless are:
1) Slipper Clutch
2) Proper break-in and shimming of the gears...
I've bought a spare "spur gear" and "diff gear" sets, but NEVER had to use them...
I'm not trying to advertise or anything but this is my DF-03 as it is now:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...cers-only.html
It is nearly BULLETPROOF. This buggy took a little bit of work to get it there, but it was worth the trip. Afterall, driving AND tuning is what I enjoy in this hobby.
This buggy runs great. It can keep up with my B44 (which has a Mamba Max + 5700Kv motor).
The two reasons why I got rid of the Mamba Max + 4600Kv motor was because:
1) I needed another brushless system for my SC10 that I bought
2) Hobbywings' Brushless form and fit much better than my Mamba Max, whereas the Mamba Max fit very well into my more-than-plenty room in my SC10.
Don't get me wrong, I've experienced breakage of various components here and there, mainly the lower half of the front transmission case, the portion of the brace that goes over the steering assembly.
But each breakage was addressed with either a hop-up part that was out there or was remedied by a DIY (do-it-yourself) parts...
Crucial thing for you "non-MS" owners as well as the "MS" owners:
1) Swap out the rear outdrive with an extra set of the fronts, they are identical. The fronts are all-steel. The rears are half steel. Make sure you get the Tamiya Steel outdrives. Third Party ones suck.
2) Get the TBR Bumper/Skid (their latest design for the DF-03). This will save the lower half of the front gearbox.
3) Make sure you get the 3Racing tranny and rear hingepin brace
4) CRUCIAL is the DIY brace as shown in my link on my buggy.
5) Check your diff and slipper often. Sand down your slipper pads from time to time to make sure it's functional.
6) Swap out the thrust bearing and do a DIY thrust bearing with steel balls and washers. The stock Tamiya ones does not hold up.
7) Use front hingepin brace from 5-Star (they are elusive company, but you can find that part from RC Champ in Tokyo).
8) Avoid alloy suspension parts as much as possible. The only ones I used on the arms are the uprights and the rear hub carriers (to avoid drilling a hole into the stock ones as per instructions).
That's it... And it's a very unique buggy now... It took some work, but it's not a saddle, it's not a battery-to-one-side-really-a-touring-car style 4WD buggy... It's a 4WD buggy that has a similar layout as a 2WD...
