Quote:
Originally Posted by Northy
Quick update, I got brave with the multimeter. There is not 240V on the first mains block inside the unit, so I'm gonna take the timer box to bits, any suggestions?
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U's really brave, then you need the 10 way connector as per page 30, assuming the original fitter used one, all neutrals are on pin 2, live goes to clock/timer/programmer, call for heat/switches to ON, live goes to room thermostat on heating side and clyinder thermostat on hot water side, back via 10 way connector to diverter valve ( you may have 1 three way or 2 single valves) the live opens the valve. this is the tricky bit - when the valve is fully open it trips a micro switch in the valve, the micro switch has a permanent live which goes to the boiler & pump via the 10 way connector and switches both to on/run, as posted above there is a sliding lever on the side of the valve that manually opens and trips the micro switch to on. So the live is connected by a series of switches, they all have to be in ON mode to open the valve, when the valve is open a live is allowed to the boiler, the boiler cannot run if the valve is closed, keeps you safe.
Of course the fitter may not have used this system, may have used other positions - anything
Mostly I think you need a qualified person, get to bed with a hottie bottie