Thanks for your comments and complements guys, always appreciated.
Regarding the wires, I will try and cover as many as I can in black shrink wrap except the heavy gauge ones. I will probably wire the motor for 'single motor maintenance' i.e. I'll hardwire it without connectors but leave the wires long and free running across the top of the belts and bulkheads so I can remove the motor and speedo as one or work on the rest of the car with the motor still wired in.
I'm patiently waiting on this fabled new grey ballcups before I get new ones, Jimmy apparently already has them so they shouldn't be long. And some Ti turnbuckles as well, although not in blue as I prefer my bling inboard (heck I even hate the kit blue wheel nuts). If the cups are that good should we be using fluorine studs as well?
Will oil the motor...
I'm using the 3 Racing 501X Ti screw set. You end up 4 x 3x8mm round heads short and 4 x 3x10mm round heads spare. Fixed by adding the 501 stiffener using up the 10mm one and freeing up the 8mm ones for redeployment... or you can just use a few other screws of course.
Yeah the kit screw problem seems to be a bit hit and miss although anecdotally it's somewhat common for the kit screws to bind (especially in a carbon/aluminium situation). It happened on most of my lower plate to alu connections - quite possibly some of us are just doing them up too tightly. The heads aren't very deep and the metal is soft exacerbating the problem. Yep, I've got a quality hex set.
Blue spacers came from the #53539 Tamiya spacer bag. Some may prefer to use a 2.5mm spacer and two are in the bag but they're silver. You'll also need to replace 4 x 3x8mm countersunk screws with 4 x 3x10mm countersunks to compensate for the spacers (they don't come with the kit). All unnecessary with Fredrik's lipo cradle of course.
Body lol, well I'm crap at painting and impatient to get this out so if I can't find a shell painter her in Amsterdam soon I'll paint it a single colour myself... most likely black like all of my previous cars.