Speedy!
Il help you out here buddy
Right, great car, very smooth car too drive total opposite of the B44. Depends on your driving style i guess.
Cat SX i drove on sunday to have a play and was impressed, more slow speed turn in than the B44 i was running but sorted that problem now with a few more spacers under ball stud!
Right this is what you need to know!
1) Front wishbones and front mounts are in limited supply, so if you are a crap driver and brake them at the moment i wouldnt buy one! Ive only broke one thing on that car, sorry two! A front shock mount and wishbone but that was done in my house playing around whoops! Stone walls!
2) Central slipper housing is very tight to start off with. There is a post on here worth reading a to how to make this better. Basically you have to dremel a bit of the plastic away on the top deck and top plate that goes on last of all. You need to ensure that the slipper spins as loose as possible but not too loose that it moves up and down and side to side!
3) Dremel away the raised bit on the top plate so that the spur is exposed. This will help you mesh and also check after each race for damage if required. Also dont fully tighten the four screws either that gld it down, back off a tiny bit
4) Buy the champ kit
5) Buy Ryans front and rear shock mounts instead of the factory ones
6) Kit spur is 87t and champ kit is 81t! Both are not spot on! The 84t that is an option to order from shops is the one i will be trying next. The 87 has too much punch and not enough top end, the 81 has not enough punch and too much top end at the end of the straight where you need to brake which makes it a waste of time!
7) Replace the stupid Yokomo caps with AE Blue alloy ones
8) Also if you have going to go down the Ryan route and shock cap route you are best to convert to B44 Shock nuts, screws and alloy blue shock collars. The kit screws bend for england and if you are changing to ryans shock mounts the kit screws will be 1cm exposed not good!!!!!
9) Weight the rear down if using lipos! Im using 110g in the back! Using Tony evodkas RudeBits B44 battery straps (50g) and ive dremeled 12x 5g weights into the battery chassis slots. A bit of strong tape is worth whle underneath chassis to hold them in further aswell. I use duck tape "Quack quack"!
10) Bin the standard battery holders and straps and drill the chassis in 2-4 places from memory and use b44 blue alloy posts and the screws aswell and a 2mm spacer underneath them lift up abit.
11) Gearing with 5.5t 87/20 or 21 and 84 19/20.
12) Setups are reguarly available from a few people. Tom yardys are very good and mine are not to bad now either
13) Keep a stock off front outdrive bearing 5x10 same as b4 front wheels.
14) Keep a stock of slipper outdrive bearings also in case they go
15) Edit rear wing
16) Space out the front king pins due to up and down slop when fitted.
17) Rear anti roll bar 1.2mm all the time
18) 40w/25w most of time with Black/Orange Springs. Yok springs are exspensive so if you dont want to waste £60 or there abouts on them use associated. You will need Blue/Silver fronts and Silver/Green rears i think.
19) Use the Blue alloy 3degree rear block set, changes the kit 3.5degree inboard to 3degree. Ther not cheap, try mk racing for them and most of the other stuff.
20) Slipper adjustment, not the best slipper but works ok. Adjustment out of the car is best sometimes others it works for me try it! Allen key into the slot and all wheels on grass hold down and turn the spur gear with your finger left or right depending on which way you need to go!
21) Buy some metal polish and polish your driveshafts...shiny cvds here we come
Photos.....hell yeah!!!!!