instructions:
Get a DuBro #313 4-40 1.25" cap head shoulder screw, and a new set of arms would be best. The screws are 4 to a pack (enough to do the car and only like $2). First chuck the screw into a dremel/drill and sand/polish the shoulder part of the screw just enough to remove the black oxide coating off of the screws shoulder. Second is to cut two screws so it's total length from end to end counting it's head to .700", then cut the other 2 screws to .630" end to end. Next take a 7/64" drill bit and drill the outer hinge pin in a XX-4/XXX-4 arm out by hand and also make the drill bit go through both arm ears and possibly turn the drill on briefly to "free" it up some. (You are not weakening the arm any by doing this, you are only drilling the 3/32" .020" thick flange out of the way that is used to keep the kingpin screws "square" when screwing them into the arm). The .700" screw goes in the front of the arm and the .630" goes into the back of the arm replacing the stock hinge pin screws on the outside of the front arms. Put a .020" thick big OD washer (like what's used in the rear pivot blocks) onto each of the screws that you cut. Thread the screws into the caster block (good idea to tap a few threads or run a stock non-cut screw through the caster block first) and make the frotn screws as tight as you can while allowing the suspension "freedom" to move freely, then tighten thhe rear screws down the same way, as tight as you can while not binging the suspension up and allowing for some slop. This helps greatly with breakign XX-4 fornt arms and caster blocks popping out of XXX-4 front arms. I'm seeing if Lunsford might make this as it's something that is so easy to do for the durebility benefits that it offers.
