Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul_Sinclair
dgriffin is right, raising the gear box does increase the dog-bone plunge. What I would suggest, Jon, is moving the axle back out. You might try going back to the B4 axle, or with the longer axles you can adjust the spacers on the just inside of the hub. The Losi spacer that most people use is .100" wide - for raising the transmission I would suggest finding some axle spacers that are about .060" thick and using them inside. You'll have to add the difference (.040 or so) on the axle outside of the hub (between the bearing and the drive pin). Hope that helps some.
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Going back to the B4 axles would again be something that would put a negative on the handling (give with 1 hand and take away with another!!!), and I had thought of trying that spacing thing... I currently am not running the Losi spacers, but instead am using some axle spacers that I had from running my 1/10th HB Cyclone Touring Car (you got a small axle spacer with every set of hubs that you bought that was designed to go between the inner and outer bearing of the hub) - not sure of the exact width of these spacers but I do have to use 2 of them each side to be the perfect size (will post size of spacers when I get my hands on some callipers). Therefore it would be easy for me to put one on the inside of the hub and one of the outside to reduce the plunge, but doing this would cause the driveshafts to pop out at full droop. To prevent this you would have to put the limitters inside the shocks or move the shocks into the middle hole on the wishbone - either way, reducing the droop to prevent the driveshafts popping out. On bumpy tracks that I usually run on this would be no good and so again "give with 1 hand and take away with another"!!!
So still need another solution to this problem... if there is no other solution then I'll need to find some other way of gaining forward drive.
Also rendering the raising of the gear box a pointless adjustment!!!!
I would like to also see pictures of other cars, Ellis' for example to see how his looks after raising the gearbox to see how he gets around the problem.
My presumption would be that he would adjust the driveshaft spacing or go back to the standard AE axles in order to raise the gearbox. And so he would run BK2 rear axles with the gearbox at its lowest (which I beleive is how he runs most of his set ups). So if he was running on a bumpy track which required the additional droop provided by the BK2 rear axles then the gearbox height would not be an adjustment available to him.
So on smooth tracks you would be able to use this as an adjustment to gain increased forward drive, but on a bumpy track this would not be an adjustment that you could take advantage of... Most off road tracks are bumpy and so I have to ask, if this is genuinly the case, then why have this adjustment???
Thanks again, keep ideas coming, Jon!