Quote:
Originally Posted by JackWood
I know!! I spent ages looking for the LEDs before I had it wired up. It was pure fluke that I had the ESC the right way around to see them! The manual is good, but missing such a basic thing like that is s bit stupid.
In the top photo the LEDs are on the bottom side of the ESC, facing the wall of the bottom tray. Really this is the only way you can orientate the ESC and be able to see the LEDs. And yes, the push button is the one on the switch. You will need to be able to see the LEDs for programming.
After my first "incident" with the Xcelorin, with this second unit I assembled the whole thing and ran it for 20+ minutes in the carpark at work to make sure everything was running fine, and only then started tidying up the wires. Did the battery harness first, then tested it again. And finally shortened the motor wires and tested again. All good this time apart from the lack of reverse with the 010128 software (010125 works fine).
The only difference you might want to make to mine would be to come 90deg out of the Corally connectors out of your Trakpower LiPo. On the LRP the terminal sockets are recessed, so not possible to come out 90deg, hence the out-top way I soldered to the Corally plugs.
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Yeah I wasn't sure about 90 deg or not. Your way does a nice job of keeping one of the wires out the belt. Maybe one done each way is best. Think I'll just wire it up with long leads to start with then modify as you did.
Shame about your reverse problem, did you manage to sent the full reset to the ESC after upgrading as the data format for its settings appears to have changed so they need blanking and doing from scratch. If you didn't, it would also explain why it works ok when you downgrade as your settings would then be in the right format.