[DaveG28]

Originally Posted by Welshy40

A.J.Gee - Have you checked the UJ pin, as the same thing happened to me, the pin cam slightly out and stopped the wheel, then slotted back in etc etc. I ended up taking the pin out and dremelling a flat spot in the centre so the screw locks it in permanently. I have not had that problem again.

If it isnt then your ghoing to have to do a rebuild and possibly the thust race could have been damaged.

501X Driver - you seem to misunderstand, you appear to race on dirt, dust and basically surfaces that are not high traction. Yes skill is a big part, especially the surfaces you race on, and great to hear how competitive you are - keep it up.

We in the UK race on high grip surfaces where torque is needed and no slip on the diff is required (well im my case anyway). We even race a lot on carpet and for the most torque/accelaration you cant afford to have a slipping diff, possibly just a fraction on the slipper, but hardly any.

I like yourself have plenty of racing experience as well and have always built my diffs by following a simple principle (associated and kyosho use this) - Tighten all the way up and then loosen off as this will bed in the spring and then you can tighten or lose off whilst tuning the car for its first run.

However the standard diff doesnt totally stop slipping, as you can tighten it all the way, hold the spur and other wheel and turn the free wheel and there is still a lot of slip. I am not dissing Tamiya, but this car was never sold in this country so kindof guess no feed back was given into the cars design from here.

I solved this problem by putting in a kyosho thrust race (bigger balls and a bigger screw hole on the plates) and also a bigger screw (almost twice the size)with the appropriate metal associated lookalike diff nut.

This now seems to be resolved but until my next run I may do one more thing. However I can now run twice the amount of balls in the diff, making it far smoother. However I have not yet tried the Kyosho diff spring which may be my next trial, as I do feel that the part that is causing the problem may be just that, a weak spring. Hence why a few people have snapped the screw, maybe due to the springs that they have being a tad stronger. Its a work in progress, and hope that this information helps someone else out.

All Tamiya TRF cars (including the tourers) use the same screw/nut/spring/thrust bearing (some use a longer screw, but same thickness), so they are more than capable of handling high grip low slip tracks! I am not saying the way your doing it doesn't improve it for you, but seriously, it is not a problem with Tamiya diffs on UK tracks, they are fine!