Right - made some changes last night and did see an improvement in the final round. However it was a bit hit and miss last night as one lad tore a corner off his car and we had shock oil spread very thinly over the circuit - makes for some interesting lines I can tell you.
RSharpy - I tried running with the wishbone pin through the uppermost hole but couldn't as it caused the drive hex to foul the end of the wishbone! I ran it on the middle for first 2 heats and moved the outer balljoint on the hub inwards and raised it by about 2-3mm. Didn't see that much of a change to be honest.
However in the 3rd heat I stood the rear shocks more upright (centre hole on tower, inner hole on w/bone) and also I moved the hub carrier pin to the lowest hole - this raised the hub (the opposite of your suggestion) and gave the upper links more of an angle of inclination. This really did make an improvement to the car - made it a lot more chuckable.
Next step for me is to reduce the grip a little on the front to make the front to rear more balanced as I still have too much front end. Some of this may be transmitter settings though - think I need to sell my KO and get something easier for me to understand!!
What I've deduced from the above is that with the KMC chassis, and having the weight towards the rear, to get any semblance of lateral grip you've got to run with the rear top links very short and at quite an acute angle. In fact if I want to try the inner ballstuds on the outermost hole I'll have to source some shorter turnbuckles!
We're getting there.......thanks for your help RSharpy.
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