Never had that problem, but I don't have the Nitride shafts, I have the original 501X and not the Worlds. I think the binding is inrelation to the machined pistons which have such a close tolerance that they don't allow even the slightest sided to side play, so if the shaft is riding to one side of the bottom cap it rubs because there is very little clearance with the piston and shock body. I have used RC10B4 shock shafts on the front of mine after snapping the originals, they are the same length, but the B4 ones are a larger diameter and I had to ream out the holes in the bottom caps to use them. The other problem could be coming from the large plastic washer that is at the top of the bottom cap that covers the seals! I wouldn't think the original shaft would give you too much problem due to their smaller diameter, but with the B4 shafts it seems to be fine untill you go to tighten the bottom cap all the way down then it binds, I think most of my rubbing is coming from that inner washer. The regular molded pistons aren't as precise but they have a noticeable amount of blowby around the piston which allows them to move slightly from side to side with no binding. Thats why you have to run different oils with the different pistons meening the molded or machined because the machined have such a tighter tolerance so they require lighter oil to get the same feel. I would think that being that they are machined that the hole would be dead center for the shaft, but after tightening the bottom cap they tend to bind on either the bottom cap or that inner washer, at least that is where mine binds then of course the piston will rub on one side of the body also if it has pressure applied to the shaft which just increases the problem.
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