HELP! BJ4 WE on hard clay track
 

BJ4 WE owners,

New to the hobby and also an avid visitor of this forum. first time posting here. I would appreciate it if you could help me out here.

Current setup
Tires: Proline Holeshot M3
Shocks: Piston # 2 F&R. Spring Silver F and Green R
ESC and Motor: LRP TC spec 5.5T
Spur: 78 Pinion: 15
Track: Hard packed clay smooth. Small track with many big jumps and turns.

Problem:
Car is really nervous, no rear traction.....The rear end just spins out everytime I accelerate or negotiate a small turn. Other cars just seemed to drive like they are on rails. :(


Questions:
1) Tires
People at my local track told me that I am running with the wrong tires. Just ordered the Double Dees. I wonder this would help.

2) Camber link washer
I have read on this forum regarding setups. Found a recommendation that I should add more washers to the inner back camber link. My question is what does adding more washers physically do the car's behaviour? I am lost there.

Your help is very much appreciated. Cheers

Adding washers to lower the rear link will stop the rear end rolling so much during the turn.

Have you tried the tebo setup, thats what we used on the clay, and it was amazing.

Regarding tyres, the double dees are very similar to the holeshots, they give a little more grip but are very similar in design.

Run whatever other people are using, this will give you a fighting chance then:thumbsup:

Hi Lee, thanks for the reply.

What you said by stop the rear end rolling has a similar effect to adding the rear stabilizer bar? Though not the same effect but similar...

Yes similar, in florida i think we ran 1.5 mm shims and a rear roll bar as well, over here i used about 4mm of shims and no roll bar.

We don't really have enough detailed info about your setup to say anything for sure, but running number 2 pistons in the back won't be helping ;)

Start with either the kit setup or the Tebo setup, and make sure you are running the same tires as the fast guys at your track. If the track is hard packed and dry the double dees will work very well though :)

Thanks guys for the advice

Setup ok...but front arm kept on breaking
 

I ran my car last week with Tebo's setup and new set of double dees tires. They car was great. I gained a lot of rear traction. It didn't spin out anymore. :thumbsup:

One problem I have now is my front arms kept on breaking. I think it's because of no servo saver (anyone??). They normally break during a hard landing from big jumps.....when the car lands a little bit off certer. Do you guys break the front arms frequestly too?

Now trying to experiment with running the tamiya 501x front arms. Can dremel the arm to fit the front bulk head...the easy part. Only problem is fitting in the hinge pins. Need to drill a bigger hole on the hinge pin brace. I hope this cure my front arm from breaking apart all the time. Any other ideas?:confused:

I broke 1 front arm in over a year of running the bj4.

It wont be down to not running a servo saver, just try to down ramp the jumps or not go for big air if there is no downramp

I drilled the TRF501X arms to accept setscrews on the inner hinge pins and reamed out the outside hole to accept the original BJ4 hinge pins. You'll also need a screw with a bigger head to capture the outside hingepin.

If you use the original BJ4 hinge pin for the bulk head, wouldn't that be a little bit wobbly as the tamiya hinge pin is bigger in diameter. The exact opposite for the outer hinge pin as you mentioned...which is ok.

Damn, you're good!!

Read my post again... :)

Argh....the setscrew. Got it. Good idea.:thumbsup:

do you mean Tebo`s 2006 ROAR-set-up? or is there a newer one?

Yes i think thats the one we used, it seems to be the generic setup in the US for the bj4:thumbsup:

thanks! afaik some of you have been to the Euro 2006 in Vienna/Austria. is it similar to the set up you used there? (that`s my home-track)