vrx ce questions
 

1st question who runs the diff WITH the plastic hub it comes with or do i really need to upgrade this to the alley hub....:thumbsup:


2nd question, with the plate thingy on the front end that sits on the 5 screws do you REALLY needs this, the think it i was going to buy the cross brace that sits on the king pins to help stiffen up the front end, then i tought to myself that the size from the centre of the holes should be the same as the centre holes from the wish bones if this is the case I/we will not be able to set camber or am I wrong ??? if this is the case i can now alter the ride height on my sons car....at the mo its 3.5mm :thumbsup:

3rd question, does the alley motor help with weight etc like the idea that you can change the heights to suit wheels etc....:thumbsup:


cheers lads, Paul

1. I use the plastic item.

2. No Idea

3. Should be a useful addition of weight and cooling for motors but Vince still needed cicra 100g adding to his carbon car at the weekend

nee bother, will try the diff out with the plastic hub as a lad at our club uses the diff as kit and has no problems with it, Vince does have a nice diff mind...cheers:thumbsup:

2. The plate helps drop the front of the chassis, changes orientation of the wishbone and allows for camber change.

The alloy diff hub doesn't make a massive difference to the way the diff performs. All you have to do to get a nice diff is make sure that the spur spins freely on the axle by removing the plastic flashing from the hole in the middle. And make sure that the wheel doesn't bind on the axle. That's it.

I run the plastic diff hub with 5.5t motor,no probs so far,spur gear has worn though (its noisy)so im fitting a new one of those.Just as apoint of interest,when we (my son And I) had the diff axle first,we stripped them to make sure they were greased ect before use and Phils had two conical washers and mine has only one,I never have asked what should be in there,they both work ok :eh?:

Chippy, those conical washers provide a spring effect for when you tighten down the diff nut. Only run one conical washer so that the smallest part runs on the inside of the bearing. This is instead of running a thrust race like you would in a normal diff I believe.

The conical washers are not a substitute for a thrust race. The thrust forces in the Mardave diff are all taken through the main (radial) bearing, as is common in most pan cars. It is a reason they fail so often because these bearings aren't designed to take large thrust loads.
The conical washers allow a degree of modulation to be had between loose and fully locked. The more washers you use, the more turns of the nut you will have in the adjustment range. Some companies use a stiff compression spring instead but the effect is the same.

I see, I wasn't too sure on that one. My mistake :)

Cheers Karl,yep I know what they do but one axle came with one and the other with two,I just wondered what is usually supplied?

They are only supposed to come with one. I only ever run one and my diff is spot on. But you could experiment with more as longrat said.