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Chequered Flag Racing 17-02-2012 01:07 PM

Mardave Diff
 
teach us all how to build the perfect diff

if you think you one;)

teamorsum96 17-02-2012 03:45 PM

me personally, i would'nt use one, as i think its just one more thing that could go wrong. some may say im lazy or tight but thats way i see it. lol

rcqmen 18-02-2012 07:35 AM

Use quality diff balls.

Silicone diff-lube.

Make the wheelnut on the diff-side slightely conical.

Wynney 18-02-2012 09:21 AM

Sand down the pinion to reduce its width so the wheel but can be done up without altering diff tension. Have had the axles on lathes to achieve the same but of you bend an axle racing you need to start again.

Chequered Flag Racing 23-02-2012 09:08 AM

posted in other threads

Karl says

Quote:

Originally Posted by Karl Dransfield (Post 624184)
All you have to do to get a nice diff is make sure that the spur spins freely on the axle by removing the plastic flashing from the hole in the middle. And make sure that the wheel doesn't bind on the axle. That's it.

and LongRat says

Quote:

Originally Posted by LongRat (Post 624254)
The conical washers allow a degree of modulation to be had between loose and fully locked. The more washers you use, the more turns of the nut you will have in the adjustment range.


almunro 23-02-2012 09:52 AM

re the Longrat quote about conical washers, i was also told that if you use two facing each other (the two outside diameters together) it acts more like a diff spring and gives you that larger range of adjustment turns.

Chequered Flag Racing 23-02-2012 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by almunro (Post 624490)
re the Longrat quote about conical washers, i was also told that if you use two facing each other (the two outside diameters together) it acts more like a diff spring and gives you that larger range of adjustment turns.

LongRat like this (( or (((( depending on how much axle thread there is

or

almunro like this () or ()() depending on axle threads

LongRat 23-02-2012 10:31 PM

Like this: ()()()(

And you'll get more turns in the modulation range as I was saying in the previous thread.

Like this: ((((((

And you'll get more preload force per degree of nut tightening but barely any more range than with a single spring washer. I would always go with the first method, not the last. I don't like having a super sensitive set up where one degree tighter on the nut is the difference between the diff slipping or being locked solid. That's not easy to tune, and very easy to get wrong.


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