Do Ceramic Diff Balls REALLY make a difference?
 

As the title says. I have a new re-build kit for my losi diff in my pit box. Felt the current ball diff today and it operated differently depending on which wheel I turned. For example. I turned the right wheel and the left wheel moved in the opposited direction. I turned the right wheel and the left wheel stayed still and the motor moved. So I thought this is a good excuse to do the diff.

I know a lot of people are running gear diffs and I am considering it. But wanted to know if it is worth spending £14 on ceramic diff balls. I have realised lately that it is not worth upgrading everything on cars. For example upgrading alloy carriers means it breaks something else rather then the original plastic carrier absorbing the damage. So I would be interested if anyone can honestly say they notice the difference between standard diff balls and ceramics. As not everything is worth upgrading and a lot of racers I feel recommend everything rather then honestly considering if that upgrade part is worth the investment

Also, what is carbide in comparision to ceramic and standard.:confused:

I usually run ceramic as they tend to wear out less than their carbide counterparts. This is especially true if you run the diff loose and the gearbox barks you will find the carbide balls get flat spots and the whole diff feels notchy and or grindy. The downside with the ceramic is because the surface is hard and they are properly round that they can slip more easily but I think even though there is this downside they make the diff nice and smooth especially in 2wd where I think it matters more than 4wd.

Thanks for that. Makes sense. So does that mean that if my diff is standard it is a carbide diff?

Yes - The standard TLR22 Diff Balls are called 'Carbide' but TLR do optional Tungsten Carbide balls which do last a lot longer than the kit ones.

I use TLR2951 3/32 Tungsten Carbide Diff Balls for the diff along with the TLR2947 Tungsten Carbide 2mm balls for the thrust race.
It makes a big difference to the longevity of the diff but even so, I would expect to rebuild and run-in my diff BEFORE every big meeting and the maximum I'd go between rebuilds is 2-3 meets.

The reason for this is that a smooth diff action is paramount to the handling of any 2WD car especially when you consider the power we are putting through them these days and the grip we have over here for them to react against.

I haven't used Ceramic Diff Balls for a very very long time but I know that some people swear by them.
It's your choice but IMO, no ball will last forever and as soon as it begins to slip or carve a groove in the plate then it will become microscopically pitted on its surface and soon after a rebuild, it'll begin to 'degrade' slightly quicker the next time.

Yes there are different grades available and I'm no diff expert but I would at least replace the kit standard ones with the TLR Tungsten ones - but be sure to do the thrust as well as the diff.

Please also ensure that you break-in your diff correctly. There are lots of threads here and everywhere else that explain how to do it and you will help yourself by doing it properly as the diff will be more reliable once set and properly broken in.

ceramic diff balls in a losi 22
 

alternatively you can use these!!
sourced and manufactured in the uk specifically for us a TRUE grade 5 diff ball!
http://shop.cpdracing.co.uk/index.ph...roducts_id=394

has anyone else tried to used 1/16 balls for the thrust race?
Reason why I try it is that I always liked my RB5 diff best and the RB5 uses 8 1/16 balls on the thrust which seems to be one reason why it is so great.
It seems to fit and the diff feels really good.
Any advices not to do so? :confused:
Didnt have time to test jet

I honestly don't feel it's worth it, nor do I feel it's better. It's the plates that wear, not the balls. Also find the ceramics a bit harder to adjust.

I recommend sanding down the plates at each rebuild with #600 paper and WD40. Do it until the groove is gone, in a "star" motion. Beware that new plates are NOT perfectly flat!!! Then clean with brake cleaner. I replace the steel balls as they cost very little.

There' also the B-Fast stuff with machined plates if you want the plates 100% flat.

Also recommend to break in the diff, with a loose setting. Then gradually tighten.

btw loose setting... I am using the TLR2948 alloy nut. It touches the driveshaft when fully compress the rear shock in loose setting. It works and it is ok but very close. Anyone noticed that too?

edit: nut was on the wrong side :blush:

You may have already checked this but I would say something is binding on the left side? Check the bearing on the left side of the diff down to the hub bearings and wheel/nut.

Dan.

I've recently put the rude bits ceramic balls into my diff and although I can't comment on the longevity of the diff it has definitely made it a lot smoother feeling and seems to have a slightly wider range of adjustment when compared to the stock parts.