FTX Blaze shocks
 

Do people use the kit shocks? Are they any good? :confused:

G

i had the all alloy shocks and there bent quickly and went back to stock ones as there are better :) some people use a hop up mini t ones but i havent tried them as yet

G,

Get the Pro shocks, with the standard silver shafts (DONT use the gold ones..they snap easy).
The std shocks just piss oil everywhere and you'll spend all your day rebuilding the bastards.

Pro shocks all the way fella.

they use the same size o-rings though Chris?

Yeah man :)

the placcy ones come apart all the time, hence "pi** oil everywhere"

when you build the Pro shocks, I had to tweak the metal 'snap' ring thing to it was not as tight to get in. they are SUCH a pain to build.

I lost one of the metal clips and I am actually using a bent staple from the packet they came in to hold it all in place - seems to work :woot:

I have to say I really do think the LRP/FTX shocks are a great design (once you have built them) the bladder works really well, super-smooth air-free shock motion. they feel better than any other shock I have built... seriously!

Bloody hell Chris lol
And how did you build them then? Spill yo secrets young man :D

- fill them up with the shaft fully extended (piston at the bottom)
- move the shaft up and down to remove air bubbles
- with the shaft fully extended and the shock filled so the oil it 'flat' accross the top, put the bladder on the top and use a blunt item to 'push' down in the centre to spill the oil out of the sides, the bladder should be fully seated on the top.
- screw on the cap keeping the shock upright, a little oil might escape from the sides as you do this, tighten the cap down finger tight.

perfect shocks!

I use the same method of the Buggy shocks and the ST shocks

Full rebound??

Interesting.......
Everyelse above is how I build my shocks to the letter, but I build with about 1/4 rebound.

Off season = testing I guess anyways :)

I don't get that much rebound, the way I see it is that the bladder should 'fully' compensate for the shaft taking up space when fully compressed. unlike the AE or Losi 10th scale shocks where there is no volume compensation. so you have to choose to have rebound or 'inbound' depending on where you have the piston when you tighten them up.

I would have thought if you built it with the bladder in its natural position (dome'd into the shock) and the shaft pushed up too when you put the shaft back out it will 'suck' the bladder even more into the shock.

hope that makes sense?

Yes, actually it does..

Thanks for that Chris, ill give that a whirl on Friday!!

Let me know what you find, I would be interested.

CD is correct. I changed mine from half rebound to full rebound on Sunday to make it land better off the whoping humps, which it did, but it was much less predictable on the mat sections. As a net result I was a few 10ths down per lap.

Conclusion, full rebound better for jumps. Half rebound better for rythm/bump sections.

I bet there is no such thing as a happy medium between the two though is there?

I would imagine that a heavier oil or less holes in the piston would be better for big jumps where as the opposite would be better for rhythm??

I would agree with that, I am in the process of making 1 hole / 35wt shocks up (ST)

How do you get lots of rebound without too much oil? I find if i try to keep the rebound good the shaft wont fully compress into the body (10th scale) sorry for the OT post ;)

you can't, the shaft not being able to go in IS 'full' rebound.

rebound is rubbish in 10th scale.

Ah ok, i have about 1cm come out after i push the shaft in, but they all feel smooth and seem to work well.

thats pretty much what I end up with on my shocks too.

always feel smoother with NorTech Whities too! :D :thumbsup: