210 rear camber ?
 

Watching the 210's going round Chadderton today, I'm wondering about the lack of negative camber change throughout the rear suspension travel.

When the car corners hard, the outer wheel is pushed to significant positive camber. This looks all wrong to me as the cars go round and could be a major factor in the 'slidy' cornering many people are experiencing on this track as only part of the tyre is in contact with the track.

Could someone who understands this stuff please explain why the 210 has so little camber change compared with other 2WD buggies ?

You can change the setup to make sure that the car does not go to positive camber by changing the camber link positions and using different amounts of negative camber. I would say it is very early setup wise for the 210 and they will change and adapt over the first year after the car has been released.

Yes it's early days, thing is lots of people I spoke to are having the same setup problem - lack of rear end grip and / or the back end pivoting around mid corner.

There's very little set up flexibility on the rear camber as the inner link just fixes to the chassis / gearbox and you can add or subtract washers - that's it !

On most other 2WD cars the camber links connect to the shock tower and you have lot's of options to change the geometry - as well as the link on the hub.

On the 210 - what's the link / washer setting to get the most negative camber change over the suspension travel as I think this is what I need looking at every other 2WD car.

Hi Andy, I know its more money but put a set of the discounted Dboots on for the next Chadderton meeting and you will be wanting to get rid of grip on the rear!

Discounted? Where from?

Hi Damo - Front and back - or just back ?

Sam - The Dboots tyres are cheaper when you buy them at Chadderton :)

I changed from Schumacher minipins to dBoots in round 4 and put in my quickest time of the day.

They defo had more grip on the rear whilst the front's felt more forgiving, making the car feel really balanced.

Ill be using dBoots front and rear for the remaining rounds.

In terms of camber change, you can lower the inner ball stud all the way down and shorten the link by using the inner hole on the hub.

The hubs have plenty of holes to change camber length so there isnt really any need for extra inner holes.

If you do create more camber change by lowering/shortening the rear link, the car will feel locked in initially but when it does break free it will do so in a snappy way. Higher inner link/longer link will make the car slide in a more progressive way, making it easier to control.

Cheers Craig.

Were they new tyres ?
Also, what rear camber link setting did you run - it's hopefully the last piece of the jigsaw for me as I finally managed to 'race' the car around - but still felt the mid corner rotation, which I really don't like !

Thanks.
Andy

These are the tyres:


http://www.rcdisco.com/part-info.php?partNo=DB10022A

http://www.rcdisco.com/part-info.php?partNo=DB10024A

http://www.rcdisco.com/part-info.php?partNo=DB1002RA

There not a new compound, they were released last year and i used them in 4wd at the previous Chadderton series.

I had a 3mm washer under the inner ball stud and was on the next to last outer hole on the hub.

Ill post my set up sheet on the website this week.

Great - thanks Craig.

What inserts do you use with the dboots tires?

That may make sense: The contact details/adress of Dboots are the same as Team Durango and Arrma, so my guess is they are actually the same company. If that's the case, then probably the Dboots were tested mostly on Durangos, and as such a Durango may perform slightly better in some cases with some Dboots, or the other way around? :confused:

D boots where also ran on a vega and c4.1 with improved grip.

I understand that they would increase grip on any car, that's not my point. I'm trying to say the DEX210 and the Dboots may have been developed to suit each other best (not providing the highest grip of course, but providing the best amount of grip for certain surfaces resulting in the best possible lap times).

Has anyone tried the new softer B compound Terrabyte dBoots at Chadderton, or have you all been running the harder A compound?

I've tried them at Formby (low/medium grip carpet) and they certainly give more grip than the A compound and Schuy minipins. The only problem is they wore out pretty quickly. Having said that I've now got an almost bald set and the grip seems to be still quite good as I guess with their very soft compound they are acting more like slicks.

Ok, I'm confused now !

I've tried setting the rear of the car up to get the most camber change over the suspension travel.

I've set the camber at 2.0 degrees when the car is stood (no suspension compression)
When the rear is compressed its still as near as damn it 2.0 degrees and is constant throughout the suspension travel.

The thing is ive tried long and short rear links (not changed washers inboard) and its the same result regardless of link length ! 2.0 degrees throughout the entire travel.

So what's the point in having 4 pick up points on the hub if they produce as near as damn it the same geometry ?

Confused.

Hey Andy
as i understand it you will get the camber change from the inner link height the lower the link the more the camber will change (negative) as the suspension works, i think !

Yeah, I think that's how it's supposed to work.
Still confused why there are 4 hub holes and they appear to make no change over the suspension travel ?

You should get more camber change with a shorter link Andy

Hi Sam.

That's what I thought, but on the 210 it seems like the geometry is setup for minimal drive shaft plunge, regardless of link length. The result of this is very little camber change regardless of hub / link position.

I'll try lowering the inner link, it's only 2 washers though, can't go any lower than removing them !