C4.1 Rear Pic?
 

Guys,

Need a picture of the rear of the car with the wheels off.

:thumbsup:

Are you trying to figure out what to do with the FT 0.5 degree rear hubs, camber links etc. ?

Yes :blush:

It seems that most or all the team guys have been using the zero degree plastic ones.

You can simply run the left on the right and the right on the left.

This lines up the camber links nicely.

You could of course do this with your 0.5 hubs BUT you would end up removing 0.5 degree of toe instead of adding it.

You may be able to use the 0.5 FT hubs with the upgraded carbon fibre mounting plate instead of the plastic one, but I have not tried yet.

If someone has found a solution to this please correct me, but the above is the conclusion I came to.

If you put them 'as is' just rotate the sides... doesnt that make the hubs arse about face?

Would the AC cf plates help? :confused:

G

Yes :thumbsup:

But you can fit the B4.1 kit alloy ones with the plastic ball stud mounts with minor modifications...

Make sure you have the Left hub on Left & Right on Right (as have seen them the wrong way when people swap the arms & hubs as one unit...)

You then need to make the ball stud holes go all the way through the plastic mount, so then you can screw the ball stud in on the reverse side :thumbsup:

Marc

Team set up sheets appear to use the B44 rear hub. Picture to follow.

hi
ok just a quick guide to how Tom Yardy suggested we modified the alloy hubs and plastic towers!
bassically we shaved the rear hub towers down to the bottom of the counter sunk holes that hold the towers to the hubs ref pics below
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1.../c41modhub.jpg

then once the meterial has been removed you can swap the towers left to right ( leaving the hubs on the correct side )
and then bolt to the front of the hub rather than the original on the rear of the hub.
see pic below
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...c41rearhub.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rs/c41rear.jpg
hope this helps :thumbsup:
alternatively fit the AS9873 carbon hub towers.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rhubtowers.jpg

Cheers buddy. I've used the B44 rear hubs for the forseable.... not having a dremel etc its difficult to make the mod.

Make sure you show that last post to your other half!

dremmel
 

I have a similar dremmel style tool you could borrow...........:thumbsup:

As9730 get it done!

They certainly would boss

Just finished building my C4.1 but can't find my camber gauge, can someone measure the length of their rear turnbuckles for me please?!??!
Simply transferring my B4 hubs and turnbuckles over to the C4.1 has given me about +20 degrees - not useful!!!

http://photos.modelmayhem.com/photos...bb37a0ec77.jpg

Can any of you helpful people confirm or deny whether i have these carbon hub towers affixed appropriatley, whole rear end set up lost me a bit! think everything is now in correct side etc but definate confirmation would be nice.

Also do the holes match exactly that of the original plastic towers, can i still use set up sheets for drivers not using the carbon version or should i amend to suit?

Any help appreciated!

They look about right to me, although you'll have to check your camber with a gauge...

However, I hate to be the bearer of bad news but I did exactly as you did and used the carbon plates on the 0.5 degree alloy blocks because I wanted to keep the blue alloy hubs (mostly cos they look nice) and struggled with understeer most of the day at the MKGP. Switched to a set of 0 degree plastic blocks and it improved the car a lot. It seems the car is so stable that the extra rear toe just locks the rear end too much. This was on reasonably high grip carpet so you might find it ok outdoors but I'd order a set of 0 degree hubs just in case.

Rob

If you like the blue bling you can buy 0° alloy hubs from the B44.
As they are 0° you can switch them L_R.

I think the carbon plates are sligthly different in height (lower)

The Factory Team CF tower plates are 2mm lower than the plastic stock towers.

I mount my ballstud on the outer-most hole, and running the CF towers with the hubs R on R, L on L, the ballcup hits the alloy hub severely on suspension compression...

So, I still use mine L on R, R on L with the CF towers.

Ideally, if there was a 3rd row of holes on the tower further in I wouldn't have to have the ballstud so far out on the hub.. I see some prototype towers (S2?) did have the 3rd row like I mean.

I could go to a much shorter turnbuckle, but I shouldn't have to for fitment, only if I want to for setup..:blush:

AC do the cf plates with the holes in the kit positions ;)

G