DEX210 25deg Caster Mod
 

Check this out:-

http://www.team-durango.com/blog/201...b0-caster-mod/

:thumbsup:

Make sense :thumbsup:
it dos suprise me that they did not think that we would want to try 25 deg when 15 deg is far too much vertical

they included the zero option for the rear toe so why not the Front Caster

any way its one way to increase the spares sales, where all goning to buy them LoL

:thumbsup:

Sly came up with this yesterday ! not sure if he can tack the credit. But big-ups for him if he did :thumbsup:

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84142

I have done my already with my 0 degree insert by the end of the first weekend they where out, with the inserts from my second kit.

I am sure td thought of the mod before anyone :). Good to see they are supporting the car though with all these articles - not many manufacturers I can think of that would do these sort in depth articles as its not free to have decent info about your cars - it costs time and effort. I only hope they keep it up and other manufacturers learn from it.

Td may have thought of it first but it was Simon who first posted how to do it. Days before they did.:thumbsup:

Shame they didnt include correct size 0deg inserts in the kit in the first place or make the manual more comprehensive. The articles are just covering bits that should have already been done.

Interesting point Mike but you also bought a Tamiya 511 kit for double the price and that didn't even come with a shell, never mind a full explanation of all the settings. :lol:

In Red Jimmy, Not true i think, if you look at the insert setup guide,
http://www.team-durango.com/blog/201...-insert-guide/

Regarding the number of washers to the trialing arm, quote :-
The Rule of thumb is however much trail you have you must have the same number of 1mm spacers behind the C-hub.

This needs explaining as i`m not sure what it does.

Hey sly, you misunderstood what I was talking about there. I meant that other manufacturers do not explain everything fully. That's all :)

From what I read you simply need to counter the trailing mm's with washers behind the hub carrier. It works out simply since its the same number of washers as trailing mm.
The example shows 3mm trailing so you need 3 x 1mm washers behind the hub to space it forward and the remainder (1 x 1mm) in front.
Those washers/shims are only there to counter the axle position setting and keep the axle in the same place when using various settings.

With moving the hub forwards or backwards to counter the wheelbase change produced by adjusting the axle trail, there is another add-on effect, and this is that the ackerman is being changed too because the steering arm ball stud position is being moved in relation to the bellcrank ball stud position.

Seems to me therefore that you have 2 options when adjusting the axle trail - move the hub and therefore also change the ackermann slightly, or leave the hub and change the wheelbase / weight balance slightly.

Thoughts on this?

Don't forget to space the ball stud to counter the height change when adjusting the caster also :lol:

Obviously ;)
Did you come up with that all on your own?:p