Different thoughts on 22 mid set-up (indoor/ozite)
 

Having been running my other 22 in rear-motor configuration all summer outside on clay, I built up another to run (mid-motor) indoor on ozite this winter - but seeing a few struggle with finding a mid set-up I thought I'd go completely against the norm and add weight (a lot) to the rear to help with traction and rotation along with relocating the inner camber link.

It WORKED marvelously - :thumbsup:
- at my local club, against a field filled with typical B4.1's, extended B4.1, mid 4.1's, RB5's, and a couple of very experienced XXX-cr's. (maiden voyage during practice, qualified 3rd for the A-Finals, and ran away from the pack winning by 1/2 a lap)

(front)
Toe = +1
Ride Height = 22mm
Camber = -2*
Caster = 10*
Kick Angle = 20*
Oil = 32.5 wt.
Piston = 4x56
Spring = Blue
Spindle = Trailing
Shock limiter = 6.0mm
Shock location = 2-middle
Bump Steer = 1.0mm
Camber Link = 1
Tyres = Schu. Slim Stagger Ribs, Yellow (PL soft foam insert)/AKA Racing Rebar, Soft (PL soft foam insert)

(rear)
Toe = 4.0 LRC
Anti-squat = 2.0*
Ride height - 23mm
Camber = -1.5*
Rear Hub spacing = 4mm fr/omm rr
Oil = 30.0wt.
Piston 4x56
Spring - Red
Shock limiters = 3.0mm
Shock Locations = 1-outside
Camber link = 1-D (custom inner mount bracket, 8mm fwd)
Arm configuration = standard/rearward
Rear hub = standard
Tyres = Schu. Mini Pin, Yellow (schu. med inserts)/AKA Racing Rebar, Soft (AKA closed cell insert)

(battery/position)
shorty/rearward, 5mm foam block in front of pack

(weight)
100gr on rear of car (custom made)
15gr either side of battery (in sidepods)


(notes - jumped perfectly level, went where pointed, well behaved/perfectly balanced, could turn under any other car on the track)

could you post some pics of the mounts you have?

6mm in the front shock??
3 in the rear?

yes (standard front limiter is 3mm) ;)
part of the theory here was that indoor carpet doesn't require near the suspension travel and this leveled the a-arms

ok
May just have to give it a go

but some tracks need the suspension travel, our track has a bunch of rumble strips (like speedbumps, they're about 30cm long, 10cm tall, and about 8 in a row) and you need the travel to 'float' across, running it lower will help you every where else but its not worth the high chances of flipping in the one section. Basically I'm saying that running that low isn't alwas good, but if you track only has jumps that you can smoothly down side every time, running that low is fine.

So does ours, didn't slow me down at all.
Matter of fact, while a lot of guys' cars were wallowing side-to-side through them, mine floated just trimming the tops of them like a motocross bike. You seem awful quick to dismiss things you haven't tried. :rolleyes:
You can run whatever setup you like, as long as yours is working and you can run at the front of the field, fine - but if you're not and searching for something that might work I was just offering up another option for people to try. You don't like it, move along.

Made these myself, using some scrap 2mm G-10 I had lying around the shop, which relocate the inner camber links 8mm forward. Easy mod, for anyone with a dremel, few skills, and a little imagination. :) Sorry about the crappy cellphone pics, but you should be able to get the idea.