HELP PLEASE:MAD MONKEY DIFF
 

HELLO, I HAVE HAD A MAD MONKEY FOR A MONTH, DONE SOME INDOOR RACING AND ONE OUTDOOR AND I LITTLE BIT OF CARPARK DRIVING, AND IT WOULD APPEAR THAT MY DIFF HAS SEIZED/BURNT OUT AND LOCKED.:cry:
I PRELOADED THE DIFF ACCORDINGLY AND USED THE STANDARD GREASE.
NOW I HAVE A 9T EZUN COMBO THAT IS A BIT QUICK AND WAS WONDERING WHAT DIFF GREASE I COULD USE WHEN I REPLACE IT.
IM GONNA FIT
1) KEVLAR DIFF 52T
2) RW RACING ACETAL 28T x2
3) BUD BALLS CERAMIC

ANY ADVICE ON THIS SUBJECT WOULD BE GREAT AND OPEN TO SUGESTIONS

MANY THANKS
BAZZA:thumbsup:

Sounds like you will need some diff plates as well. The bits you have listed will make your gearbox pretty bulletproof. The ansmann nylon idlers are good to, I run those in my x2c and haven't had any problems.

Diff plates, make sure they are nice and flat before you rebuild. I always fallten mine down by using 400 grit wet and dry, then 600 grit and finishing with either 1000 grti and then some 1200 to polish it off. I do this straight out of the packet. Xray diff plates can be used as well, they are a straight fit and are rumored to be a little harder wearing, although I am still testin this. Have had no major problems with the standard ansmann ones though.

Before you re-build give the diff spring a good few squeezes with a pair of pliers just to make it a bit compressed. Helps with setting the diff up when you have re-built it.

Check the videos out on this thread in rc tech for how to set up your diff properly and run it in.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...er-clutch.html

Hope this helps :thumbsup:

Thank You
 

Many thanx for all your help, built the diff and found racer53 videos and not had a problem:cool:, except, everyone wants me to build theirs!:bored: