Correct way to install flexi system.
 

Could adam confirim the correct way to install this, as in the diagram provided it shows a screw going through the rubber insert into the sidepod, and infront of that a screw with a gold washer into the sidepod.

now ive tightened the screw right up to the rubber insert so that its squashing the rubber insert slightly as I like to run a stiff brace, just wanted to confirm this is the correct method and ive not made a school boy error

as it says you can tune the stiffness with washers and was wondering if this meant the gold ones provided even though it says to use them no the screw in front.

thanks :thumbsup:

looks nice btw! im thinking of getting a 8racing carbon chassis with alu side rails to bling it further :lol:

The Manual shows how to install the brace in the most rigid condition.
To allow the flex system to work, simply remove the washer from the front screw.
This allows the flex brace to move for and aft in the slot according to how much pre-load you put on the rubber bush at the rear. You do this buy altering the amount of washers you put either on top of or below the bush before tightening the rear screw hard down. (Below is neater as you then don't see the washers).

so for a rigid setup keep it as the diagram shows, no screws under rubber stop and screwed right down firm and the gold washer under the front screw?

thanks.

Yes, no shims under the rear stop.
The washer under the front screw locks the front end completely. That stops the front of the bar moving, the only flex will be in the part itself.. You could of course just use normal M3 x 10mm screws to hold the whole thing down. That would be uber stiff.

Super, thanks adam! Great looking part to!

Couple of pics of it installed to show you what it looks like.
Sorry for poor iphone pictures

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6157/...496f5151ca.jpg
Flex system by Philcorner, on Flickr

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6061/...f2156c1655.jpg
Untitled by Philcorner, on Flickr

Looking good. Less of that poor iPhone pics haha.

i know its shocking

I have followed the instructions given by Adam. I have removed the front washer and now have some flex. However my findings are that no washer under the rear rubber grommet gives more flex. This appears to be the opposite of what Adam has described above. I'd of thought the more washers under the grommet, the more preload and therefore less flex:confused:

Can anyone advise:confused:

IIRC.

To clarify what Adam has written

If you put a washer under the front bolt head it completely locks the system out as it removes ALL movement.
At that point the rear screw with the rubber bush is only there to locate the brace, nothing more, the front bolt has effectively locked the flex out.

If you remove the front washer, you then allow the brace to move by the thickness of the washer, the shank on the bolt prevents you tightening it down against the brace, you are only tightening down against the side pod.
The movement is then controlled by the rubber bush, more preload = less motion/flex.
So you are adding washers to the bush stack to reduce flex. (And removing to increase flex)

Hope that is clearer for you.

That is perfect. Thanks very much :thumbsup:

Not to be a noob. But what is this flexi system? On what car? I have a 210, and a V3 410.

it fits the DEX410 car and allows adjustment of the flex in the rear of the car.

http://www.team-durango.com/blog/201...em-set-dex410/

Is there a kind of ranking which method is the one with most flex to no flex?

Plastic pods and Carbon brace - lot of flex
plastic pods and Flexi without washer- less flex
plastic pods with flex with washer- less flex
alu pods with carbon brace- less flex
alu pods with flexi without washer- less flex
alu pods with flex with washer- less flex

Would this be correct?

I would imagine thet most flex wouuld be plastic pods and the flex brace set 'loose'.

Least flex would be alu pods with either the carbon brace or with the flex brace locked solid.