Best screw extraction device????
 

A mate is having issues removing 4 screws from his chassis, all 4 are countersunk so are flush to the alloy chassis, as it is nearly impossible to get a dremmel in there without damaging the chassis do any of you guys know of another way he can get these screws out?
I have seen a few screw extractors for sale on ebay but they all seem to big for rc screws, any help much appreciated :D

At work, if an M3 countersunk screw gets stripped, I drill down a few mm with an M3 drill and hammer in a Torx bit to get it out.

If it has not yet stripped, you can spray with WD40 and heat the screw up. That usually frees up solid threadlock.

I have had limited success in heating the screw with a soldering iron to loosen the threadlock that refuses to budge at room temperature.

I did have to use this in conjunction with a dremelling a slot in the screw though, as the end of my driver snapped inside the screw head (it was that tight).

How about drilling the heads of the screws, with 3.5mm bit, then removing the held on part from the chassie, then use pliers or small mole grips on the remaining thread, sticking out from the part.

Wear down a dremel cutting disk until it's tiny, then cut in a slot.

I think that's probably going to have to be it :thumbsup:

Many thanks everyone else for the suggestions :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

I've forced in small Star head (torks) driver and used that to remove stubbon screws.:)

if the chassis is alu and the screw steel then heat is your best friend. the alu will expand far more than the steel screw thus making the screw slack! Only problem is discolouring alu chassis. you should be ok if you balance another screw on the tight screw head to head then heat it up til red hot then allow heat to transfer...worked a peach for me

Just had another thought. Could you not obtain some left handed threads drill and tap the screw head and tighten in the left hand screw removing to stuck one.

Just a Thought. I've never done this.

Just like THIS CLICK ME

Not a bad idea that :thumbsup:
The chassis is alloy & so is the gearbox that is screwed to it, the screw will be steel i would think as it is a standard kyosho rb5 kit screw

I see no reason why that wouldn't work as well Chef :thumbsup:

if its metric i hammer an imp driver in,works everytime,if not then the torq way always works
did you manage to get it out

I had a 2mm screw round on the DEX410 so I hammered a T9 (I think) torx bit in there and turned it out. Once it started to turn you could remove it easily with your fingers and no damage to the chassis :)

anybody ever manage to do a similar thing with a B44 front wishbone when the screw has snapped at the head and only left the rest of the screw in the wishbone ??? :woot:

cheers :thumbsup:

Either a ez out, or a centre dot tap it undone, or drill the head off.

good luck with that one:woot:.......let us know if you managed it and how:thumbsup:

This works great..............

http://www.jespares.com/electric-mod...tegory_id=1290

suppose i could always try "NOT CRASHING" :woot:

I bought a thrashed Corally RDX of eBay recently and went to rebuild it only to discover many of the torx screws were rounded out or to tight to remove.
I drilled off the head and what was left unscrewed easy once the tension was off it. Didn't damage the carbon as the head of the screw protects it from the drill bit.
Did loads of them!!
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g2...l/9ccbfe36.jpg
Cobolt drill bits FTW.

Oh and I bought over 50 replacement hex head screws from the local fasteners suppliers for a fiver.