Various set up questions
 

Hello all,

I am returning to the hobby and have purchased the various items that have been recommended to me - most of which is second hand.

The down side of this is that sometimes not all the parts came as they would have when new, and my knowledge is some 10 - 20 years old of wiring these things up.

As such I was hoping to use this thread to ask questions and generally query this build on a bit by bit basis as they arrive (so I'm not trying to learn it all in one go.

So, first question.

I have a lipo charger and saddle lipos (35c, 5000mwh). I need a wire to charge and balance them (which is easy to get) however should I be charging the 2 saddle packs together? Or would I only be abl to do it 1 at a time?

Second question:

I have a 2.4ghz tx and rx - can I set up the tx to work with a second rx? (as in a second car without needing swap anything around, they would not run at the same time). Beforehand I would swap crystals but in these I cannot see how I would do it.

Third question:

Not electrics, but what actual effect do harder and softer suspension springs have on the handling?

Forth question:

When my motor comes through, it is an 8.5 turn 4000kv and I am using a factory B44. What size ?cog? should I have on the motor to work with the stock ?cog? on the b44 without stripping any teeth? Do they make metal versions?

Any help much appreciated, and I'm not 100% with the terminology as you may have guessed

Hi,

Answers below

Best to change the two parts of the saddle pack at the same time. So the two are balanced against each other. (Also you can see on the charger if one is out from the other)

You'll need a cable like this: http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/pro...y/gallery1.jpg

From here: http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/cml...tId=0000005277

Just bind the second receiver to the transmitter. Both receivers should now work with the transmitter.


Have a read of some set-up guides.
Here's one to start you off: http://users.telenet.be/elvo/


Stick with the plastic spur (on the car) and a metal pinion on the motor.
Metal to metal does not work very well.

Start off with a 25/26t pinion, If the motor is still cool after a 5min run, then try one more tooth. If the motor is too hot to touch after a 5 min run, the it is overgeared, go down one tooth on the pinion.


MiCk B. :-)

Thanks bud, in process of buying he bits now.

ANyone know what lipo lead I will need for the use of the batteries (not charging)

""I have a 2.4ghz tx and rx - can I set up the tx to work with a second rx? (as in a second car without needing swap anything around, they would not run at the same time). Beforehand I would swap crystals but in these I cannot see how I would do it.""

You will need to make sure the receiver & tranny are the same make & their models are compatable, for example a futaba receiver wont work with say a etronix tranny, just make sure you get the same receiver as the 1 you already have
Hope that makes sense

Just run the wire direct from the esc to a plug like this
Just search this number on DMS racing's website - TEP2500
http://www.dms-racing.com/
Try & keep your wires as neat as possible to avoid them going anywhere near your spur gear

Again apologies, my knowledge of connectors on goes as far as the white ones from a long time ago.

I'm assuming for using the lipos with the esc, I would need a bridging wire between the 2 packs, and 2 banana wires (1 from each pack) leading into a single deans connector. I am not sure if this is should be male or female however on the battery side of the connection.

On a seperat question as well, my old touring car is now working but I need to replace the 10 year old batteries. Thinking of a stick lipo instead of NiMh (35c, 5000mah) however concerned that may blow the esc and brushed motor.

Could I use that same wire in Mick B's post to connect it to the ESC?

This is how my b44 is wired up, no nead for a deans plug, just the bridge wire between lipo's & direct wires from the esc to each lipo, this just keeps it a bit more tidy in there :)
Then all you will need are a set of charge leads like Mick suggested

So you just soldered the connectors onto the ESC wires? That makes more sense.

I'm assuming they are 4mm bullet banana? Are they hard to solder?

They are very easy to solder :) & yes they are 4mm, also dont hold the connector in your hand when soldering as it will get hot but if you put solder on the wire first it should only take a few seconds to do

Thanks :)

Any ideas if a lipo would blow my old electrics? I would assume not due to voltage but then again.

Oh I'm planning on doing the build itself on a separate post piece by piece with photos in case anyone was in the same situation in the future

If your old electrics are as you say "old" then they are probably not suited to lipo's, best to check the manuals to be certain or post what they are on here & someone with more knowledge than me will confirm it for you im sure :)

That would help :)

Touring car:
ESC = Elecktra by Novak
Receiver = Code CR139 (this I don't expect a problem with)
Motor = 21 Turn Team Tronik Vision (modified)
Servo = Futaba FP-S148

One day will look to modernise - but the B44 is costing a fortune

From this i would have to say no the esc is not lipo compatable
http://www.teamnovak.com/download/in...lektra_ins.pdf

Ditch the touring car and get your stuff along to Seaham tomorrow and I will sort it out for you! Have you got everything to run tomorrow?

Not yet I'm afraid. I'm still waiting on wires, motor, ESC, connectors and a few bits to bring the B44 up to scratch. It's all bought, just awaiting delivery.

As for ditching the touring car - gives me something to do while waiting for all the parts, although without a battery that's useless as well.