SOLDERING HELP!!
 

Hi guys. As the thread says, I am in urgent need of some help to solder all of my electrics so that I can race on Sunday. I have being trying to do it myself, but have failed miserably. If there is anyone in the Southampton/Botley area that can assist before the weekend, I would be very grateful.
I do have a Maplins 60W soldering station and some 40/60 soldering wire, but no skill.
Many thanks.:confused:

What exactly are you trying to solder fella ?? Most of the electrics should have plugs with the exception of battery connectors and maybe the motor if brushless.

Motor to ESC. Speed Passion ESC so cables need to be soldered onto ESC and motor.

really you need a 100W iron, I was really struggleing with a 60Watt on my PS ESC, I don't have one at the moment.

60w is plenty enough to solder motors and esc's. Have you got a picture of the iron or link to it. Im guessing you have a very small tip on it.

really, i could not get the heat into the wire quick enough, even with a 5mm wide tip, this was only on the ESC side, as the heat was going straight into the speedo?

Brian will have my genny so can bring my soldering iron and do it first thing will be on site 7.30 to 8 ish

60w is more than enough for escs and motors.

i used to suck at soldering but have praticed alot and now consider myself quite good lol, its defnitly not easy, but tinning the tip before you touch the object you want to heat up helps, it transfers the heat quicker, plus not much will stick to the tinned area as it will stay on the iron.
also use solder that contains flux, bison make a nice 40/60 solder wire that contains plenty flux.
i praticed heaps before i took on my motor/esc. the esc is for me the most difficult.

if you tin the area and the wire enough then there is no need to add more solder afterwards. less is better in my opnion, so once the are is tinned you need to just touch your tinned tip to it and push the wire into the solder as it flows, once the wire is all the way against the connector then release the heat and hold the wire there without moving at all, just take the pain lol, its worth it.

good luck and keep praticing!:thumbsup:

Good old youtube :thumbsup:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLfXXRfRIzY

You shouldn't be using solder with any lead content for the last few years.

You can only use it to repair an item which already has lead containing solder unless used for military purposes.

I'll have a super hot 60w there on sunday if you need t:thumbsup: If you are near camberley/Basingstoke between now and friday drop the bits to me and I'll solder them for you.

K

You also should not be holding the hot iron to the esc for more than 3-5 seconds or you risk damaging the esc through excessive heat transfer. If you have tinned the wires first 60w should easily do the job in 2-3 seconds.

Always happy to help with soldering, if you're bored feel free to come down to the shop with the stuff and we'll sort it.

what do you mean by that? because lead is poisonous?
i bought it in a store..

Its a Rohs, WEEE thing if i remember from work...

Yes, it is poisonous.

You can still buy it and it does make more shiney joints but shouldn't be used these days.

Thats a bit OTT. Yes its not safe to inhale the vapours in large amounts but the small quantities in soldering a few joints in a well ventilated room is nothing. Just dont put your head over it while you do it.
Years ago the phrase " mad as a hatter" came from the workers who used lead to make hats going crazy inhaling lead vapours all day.
I use this stuff
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOLDER-REE...item415b919692

Also, don't prepare food or eat afterwards unless you wash your hands.

Thank you all very much for your comments and help.
I now have the problem sorted. Can't really say that I managed on my own. Simon 'Mr RC Lazy' worked the magic for me. Funny, he made it look really easy. Heat is your best friend when it comes to soldering.
Just hope I can keep the car in one piece on Sunday.
RC Lazy. Many thanks Simon