Shock pistons proud
 

Hi guys, trying to build my 410 shocks,i screw the shock eyelets onto the bottom of the shock shafts as far as they will go just before the shaft is making the pivot ball bind, but on pushing the shaft back into the shock bodies the piston is sticking out 3-4 mm proud!! this obviously cant be right :confused:
Or is this normal? & you set the piston 3/4 of the way up the shock body when bleeding the shocks?

Hey Steve, as the shocks on the durango dont use a bladder design its normal for the piston to go proud of the top, as long as it doesnt prevent full travel with the cap on that's all, otherwise on a hard landing it will come out through the top.lol

As for setting when bleeding, i tend to run 0 rebound on my shocks, but its a tuning aid. For indoors you dont really need any rebound unless there's some prolonged rumble strips e.t.c

im sure my durango shocks come with a rubber that stops the shock hitting the top of the cap?

there like a taper rubber about 4mm high

Cheers Jamie
I have built up shocks in the past (associated & losi 1/8th) & never come across pistons sticking out proud of the bodies so i thought it peculiar,oh well live & learn.

EDIT- One more thing (for now :eh?:) are people building there 410 shocks with the 2mm rebound shims in front & rear or just the front?..obviously there are droop screws on the rear of the 410

http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD230010

have a look at the photo of the shocks and by the pistons to the right of them are the taper rubbers i had with mine

the shocks was built as i bought my car 2nd hand but when i rebuilt them i for got to put them back in and found that same as you have

hope this helps :confused:

As lee said, make sure you also have the rubber spacers on the shaft for both front and rear.

This will also stop the piston coming up so high into the cap, but also help cushion the shock and relieve some of the pressure inside the cap on full compression.

They are ment to be used if you are not running the shock boots,i tried to fit them as i didnt want to use the boots but i couldnt screw the anodised shock bottom on

You are correct that the bump stop rubbers go on if not running the dust boots (as the boot has a similar chunk of rubber at the bottom. But you shouldn't be trying to fit them in the shock body / seal carrier as you apear to be suggesting, they just slide on the shaft before screwing the ball joint on.

oh right i see, i never had shock boots on so i never come across that problem sorry pal

you got PM too :thumbsup:

Yes Dazzler i was trying to fit the tapered rubber into the body also..what a prat i am

Ahhh right,so i screw the anodised shock bottom on,then slide the tapered rubber onto the shaft where it sits up against the red anodised bottom?..thus not letting the piston protrude over the body?

yep :)

That's is Steve, you dont have to run the little rubber as the shocks are designed to run without the grommet, if they weren't and the rubber fell off, it would bust the shock cap.

The gold coloured 3.mm shim is used to limit bound movement, and the rubber grommet just floats up and down the shaft whilst on track to effectively clean the dirt off it, rather than letting the dirt get inside the shock seals.