Edit Lightweight Parts Now Available
 

http://www.rc-edit.com/piw.php?partNo=ed010461&lang=en

http://www.rc-edit.com/piw.php?partNo=ed010471&lang=en

:D

Lookin good adam. Will the slipper parts fit the bj4 slipper assembly?

lil ben

nice, i reckon ill get me some of them:)

Tried new bits on my car last weekend! One word... AWSOME! Would highly recommend:D

Adam would i be correct in thinking you own edit???

A

Unless he owns HPI :)

EDIT is a brand of HPI Europe. Registration details are as follows:....

or maybe he works for Mirage :rolleyes:

I thought adam had something to do with edit. but i dont know what

A

Adam is basically the KING of Edit. No doubt Adam doesn't raid his piggy bank to set it up on the side of his job at HPI - but he is the designer and main man.

oooooooooooo

A

don't you look at the Ad's in the mags Ash? It tells you on them what he does.:rolleyes:

I havent got my mag in months lol my newsagents have a big stack of them lol

A

Those parts look ace the differential parts look identicle to the bj4/b44 would they fit?

I don't know if they'll fit the B44 or BJ4.
If someone wants to try and fit a stock HB diff into a BJ4 or B44 and let me know they're welcome to.

The parts are really durable. I've had mine in since Batley Outdoor Regional last year.
Jimmeh failed to notice these parts until recently...

You do have to shim the diff slightly different to the standard diff and compounding tolerances never quite add up.
But shimming gearboxes is very rarely the same.

Here's how I normally shim them.
1. Use the same shim as you normally use on the input gear (since this has not altered).

2. Take the built diff and only place this in the bottom half of the gearbox. If the bearings are a push fit it in, make a small ~0.5mm chamfer on both sides of the bearing journal (as shown in the diag). This stops the bearing being pinched and frees up your drivetrain)

3. Now using the silver and brass shims, shim the diff only from the back of the gear side until the diff has no side to side movement but still spins freely.
(This gives you the right amount of shims to 'play' with)

4. Move 0.2mm (1 Silver or 2 brass) to the other side of the diff. This provides a good starting point normally. check for back-lash between the input and ring gear. You should be able to feel some but not much.
Another tip here is to get it so there is none then move 0.1mm to the front of the ring gear.

5. Write down where you put your shims on a piece of paper for your front and rear diff!!! Makes re-building so much easier

Yeah, got the parts today and i'm just fitting them to my car - they look ace and are much lighter than the kit versions.

Just to elaborate on Adam's tip about writing down the number of shims fitted - I write it down on the inside of the gearbox case with a paint marker. Can't lose it then!:o

definatly not, HPI Europe all the way!

untill you need to replace the gearbox :p

do the blades come with the edit parts if not what part number do we need?

The blades are HB61333 - you'll need one set for each diff and one for the slipper, so three packs in total.

I would be more than happy to try it out :)

Sorry for the beginners question.... but what exaxctly is "back-lash" with reference to Adam's build tips in the post above?

Does it mean that there is some free movement/play in the gears?