Mad Rat front wheel binding problem
 

I've just fitted some new wheelnuts on my car and notice that the front wheels bind severely if the nuts are only slightly tightened.
This happens with the original nuts too but I didn't notice at first.
Anyone know of a fix apart from having the wheelnuts loose?
Cheers.

put in a shim or 2 before you put the wheel on, should stop it binding on the hubs.

3 questions first
1. Whick car are we talking about?
2. do you have bearings or brass bushings?
3. Are the wheels the original ones or aftermarket?

You should never need to have loose nuts :p

1) I'll take a guess (clue in the title) & say it's a madrat :p
2) When i built mine all 4 wheels binded regardless of bushed or bb's.
3) I'll guess & say kit wheels.

Some say to put a shim in behind the pin prior to mounting the hex/wheel.
I can get the nut up just tight enough to not wobble yet not bind either.

Seems to be an in-built issue tbh.

there is a way to solve this but it requires some fiddleing what you need to make is a crush tube so that it cannot squash the bearings together loading them like this means the bind up :thumbsup:

I've tried putting a Teflon washer behind the pin ( in between the pin and the bearing ) and it's made no difference.
What's a crush tube by the way?
I also can't work out where the binding is taking place. Is it the bearings that are binding or is the wheel binding with the hub?
Cheers.

I GOT THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MINE:thumbdown:1

It is all because when you tighten the wheels nuts, your trying to squeeze the two wheel bearings together, putting an axial load on them, hence why when you slacken the nut off, they free up. Like has been said above, you need to make a spacer to sit between the two bearings so that when you tighten up the nut, it doesn't put a side load on the bearing.

Looking into the hub there's already an inbuilt spacer, so I can't see anything making a difference.
I've placed a small teflon washer in between the pin and the bearing, and a teflon washer on the axle between the large e clip and bearing. This has made a minute bit of difference but it's still unsatisfactory.
How Ansmann overlooked this beggars belief.

no, you need to put a spacer inbetween the bearings

you got a shaft with bearing like [] []
you need to fit a spacer like []=[]

On the rear axle (which I just done) you use the inner race from a 5x10 wheel bearing.

That "inbuilt spacer" only holds the bearing outers apart, a crush tube sits between the two inner moving parts of the bearings.

do you know if any company has made an aftermarket solution? :confused:

Right i've got you now. Thanks for clearing that up.
Do you know of a source for this crush tube or something similar that's up to it?
Cheers

you will have to make your own.

I've decided to just throw the towel in with it now and revert to its original form. Just loosened the nuts and used green loctite on the axle threads.:thumbdown:

Thanks for your constructive comment :confused: and I like your suggestion on helping this dude ;) NOT!!

I have never had a problem however I use the pro cars.

The crush tube ppl speak of helps prevent over tightening only and could be helpfull if you have bearings.

Does it bind with the wheel off or only when its on? I really need to know if its bearings or brass bushings (It does matter and make a difference)

First off chap i'm sorry you're unable to read, firstly the thread title, & secondly that i stated two things which i have genuinely experienced when i built mine , firstly i have read that some people have tried placing shims between the bb & the pin & secondly that the way i (crudely) overcame the problem was to simply do up the nuts to the point where they didn't bind but also had no slack (i believe these are called suggestions!)

The comment about mine binding firstly with bushes & also when upgrading to bb's was simply a factual statement.

My car is fully ballraced. The binding only happens with the wheel on, and it binds with the wheelnuts only semi tightened. The only time the wheels don't bind is if the nuts are relatively loose, and as a result there's a fair bit of slop/play.

Then you need to make some crush tubes as said above, thats the only answer.

Ok thanks. I agree the crush tubes are the best starting point to help solve the problem.

Now if you have 2 old wheel bearings you will be able to make some easily. The thing to do is cut the outter of the bearings away so your left with the inner part of the bearing case. It's the perfect size and goes directly between the two wheel bearings.

Something else you can try or do also is get the Alum hex set (link) they lock down over the pin and sit up against the bearing.