New Parts - Ansmann Mad Rat/Mad Monkey/X2/X2C
 

A few new parts from AC:

Mad Rat/Mad Monkey/X2/X2C - Front Shock Tower 4mm CF - £13 each

Mad Rat/X2 - Rear Tower 4mm CF - £17 each

Mad Monkey/X2C - Camber Link Plates 4mm CF - £6 a pair
(These allow you to shorten the rear camber link, and give a finer adjustment when raising and lowering the height of the ball stud. This helps to eliminate on power push and reduce rear end roll. They will give more steering while at the same time allowing the rear to square up faster from the turn producing more drive.) - They do need some very small headed screws to fit them - not supplied

I'll get these added to the shop asap, but if you want some before that then feel free to pm me or contact me threw the AC web site:

http://www.Atomic-Carbon.co.uk

just thought i would put up a couple of pics of the camber links and front tower on my x2c
to fit the camber link extensions i ground down a couple of standard ansmann srcews, the links can be used as i have, to get an extra hole lower or flipped to have an extra hole on top.
The front tower has been designed with an extra inner shock mounting hole and with the carbon part of the tower hidden behind the shock it allows maximum air flow

Attachment 22530

Attachment 22531

Attachment 22532

sorry the pics arent great

cheers pete

Nice
Any chance of a carbon rear shock tower for the Monkey/X2C in the near future?

oops

Maybe ;)

Nick I will have some soon ac here comes the race

Nice parts, might put an order in soon!

Re, rear tower... Check out my thread... http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65919

Sorry to steal the post but thats my version, has been good in the small amount of testing ive done, ally brace needs tidying up though...:wub

With regards to the rear tower is it the same height as the original?

I have been running my own design rear shock tower in perspex which is slightly higher in the hole positrions which enables the rear of the car to be run lower, which is very useful. does loose a little bit of droop but it has enough to be useable.

Will the atomic carbon towers be like this or original positions?

Loving the like adaptors much nicer than mine and look hard as nails to :drool:

Thanks for the kind words :D

The holes are in the standard positions, during testing this seemed to be the best compromise.

G

Oh well I guess I will use mine indoors only then :D

You will be receiving a order soon then along with one for some whities and some countersunk washers. :thumbsup:

PM sent with regards to the camber link plates

When will this new parts be available in the on-line store? Regards.

rear camber link
 

Attachment 22531

Hi.

I see from the this pic the rear camber link is much shorter than the stock position having fitted the camber plates. The upper link is also angled.

What effect does this have on the cars handling having a shorter top link and having it angled and not parralell to the lower arm?

regards

james

Mad Monkey/X2C - Camber Link Plates 4mm CF
(These allow you to shorten the rear camber link, and give a finer adjustment when raising and lowering the height of the ball stud. This helps to eliminate on power push and reduce rear end roll. They will give more steering while at the same time allowing the rear to square up faster from the turn producing more drive.) - They do need some very small headed screws to fit them - not supplied

Can someone point me in the direction of which screws/bolts I need to fit this part please? :blush:

fitting camber plates
 

Hi dude.

Just received mine through the post this morning and just fitted them.

You will need 4 m3 x 10mm screws which I pinched from my madrat spare car ( taken off shock tower). You will find the heads are too big as the 2 mounting holes are very close together. You can solve this by putting the bolt in a drill and set it to a low speed and use a grinder to make the head smaller. That way the head is even all round.

The upper camber link ball joint, you can use the same ball socket but you need a 3m lock nut ( 1 on each side to hold it firmly).

Finally, you will find the upper link is too long so I just used the same turnbuckle but removed the plastic ball joints and used stock madrat ball joints which are shorter.

Some pics to give you an idea..

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...x/DSC00095.jpg

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...x/DSC00098.jpg

Cheers for that dude...... Looks like I'm gonna have to crack the dremmel out and get these parts fitted :blush:

you can also screw one screw through the c/f part and one through the rear just to hold it in place
sorry the pics a bit rubbish

Attachment 24506

Well finally got around to getting the camber link plates fitted :blush:

Use some 3x10mm bolts (same as jpmatrix) and turned the heads of them down using a dremmel to 3.8mm dia

Really please with the fit, just need to get out and give them a run :D

Thanks for the advice guys ;)

Some pics for others to see :thumbsup:

Looking good :D

Am I correct in thinking the rear hubs have a high and low hole? Would be interesting to see what people thought to using the low hole on the rear upright ;)