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-   -   Is this a good start car? (http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64301)

mattyts 27-02-2011 12:00 PM

Is this a good start car?
 
Hello
I wondered if this is a good start car to on road racing ad then drifting later on?
http://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=34128
Once the stock motor breaks ill probably put a nice brushed motor in(around 18t)
or a brushless combo in(around 5t)
Will it handle going to brushless?

colmo 27-02-2011 04:58 PM

I've never seen that one before, but if you want to race, you may want to give that one a miss - I see no adjustment holes on the shock towers, and no adjustment rings on the shocks (though that's common on RTR and low budget tourers), so you're stuck with that suspension setup, barring a change of springs, oil, and (though I can't tell from the pics) roll centres.

For car park bashing, it looks fine, nice and robust.

It'll probably drift just fine, and that shell is lovely (albeit not a touring car shell).

Low budget racers that you can drift with are the Schumacher Mi1, Tamiya TA-05 v2, Xray T3R, Sakura Zero S, Team Magic E4JS (I run one of these, so can help with setup), or alternately a good, used car from your club of choice - TC drivers change cars as often as pants, so there'll be options for sure.

For electrics, you'd want a brushless sensored ESC (Hobbywing Xtreme Stock is best bang per buck, do a search on it), a suitable brushless sensored motor for the class you want to race (17.5, 13.5 etc), one decent lipo battery and charger, they have massive capacity so only really a need for one, a decent servo (Savox low profile is best value) and radio (keep an eye in For Sale or post in the wanted ads).

Non-2.4ghz RTR radio gear is essentially worthless the moment you've bought it, so represents poor value for money to get it with the car.

Most importantly, visit the venue you want to race at before blowing cash. They'll tell you fairly much the same thing as above.

mattyts 27-02-2011 05:05 PM

Hi ok thanks,what would be the best touring/drifter for under £200?
I wont be racing proffesioally just a few mates in our local pub carpark!

I know about lipos and servos and radio systems as i race 1/8 off road!

Im trying notto go down the lipo route as i have two 4500 team orion nimh and charger that set me back £80 and have only been used twice!

colmo 27-02-2011 05:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattyts (Post 469147)
Hi ok thanks,what would be the best touring/drifter for under £200?
I wont be racing proffesioally just a few mates in our local pub carpark!

I know about lipos and servos and radio systems as i race 1/8 off road!

Im trying notto go down the lipo route as i have two 4500 team orion nimh and charger that set me back £80 and have only been used twice!

That Kyosho kit is on par with a Tamiya TT01 or Ansmann ARE-1 or ARE-2 (actually, the Ansmann would be quite a bit cheaper, kit is £50-odd, RTR around £100).

The Team Magic E4JR is a nice kit, albeit still brushed, but a bit more raceable, £169 from CometRC. Just needs the adjustable camber links for racing, really, the only difference from the E4JS. Note it is belt drive, see below*

LRP have the S10 Blast TC, looks a bit higher spec (adjustable shocks, multiple shock tower positions) than the Kyosho for less money, £140-ish, seems to be a few different variations of radio kit.

I think Schumacher are bringing in a Speed Passion branded TC. It'll likely be a similar sort of thing too.

As you already have a radio for 1/8th, a Tamiya TA-05 kit would be excellent, just get another receiver, any brushed ESC (second hand and cheap, bound to be loads stuffed in the back of drawers here) to run the supplied silvercan motor. Tamiya TA05s are very, very popular for drifting - I used to race one, and would powerslide round corners, as the midmotor position made it very balanced! The only downside is that it's belt drive*

Probably no point getting a fancy carbon fibre tourer which will get scratched up with loose stones, better off with a rugged plastic tub chassis.

* Belt drives are more vulnerable to loose stones on less than perfect surfaces.

mattyts 27-02-2011 06:29 PM

I looked at the ARE-2 and tamiya tt01 but was put of by them both not having bearings and no upgrade is available for the are-2. and i dont fancy a kit build with a tt01

The lrp looks class, and with everything id want,i think my decision is made! thanks mate!

colmo 27-02-2011 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattyts (Post 469177)
I looked at the ARE-2 and tamiya tt01 but was put of by them both not having bearings and no upgrade is available for the are-2. and i dont fancy a kit build with a tt01

The lrp looks class, and with everything id want,i think my decision is made! thanks mate!

It even has gear diffs, great for casual racing. I noticed it was available in a few variations on the Freeprawn site. Are you going to use your existing radio?

mattyts 27-02-2011 06:55 PM

Well ive got a 27mhz on my buggy so ill just get 2.4 from the start
Thannks for the advice :thumbsup:

colmo 27-02-2011 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattyts (Post 469191)
Well ive got a 27mhz on my buggy so ill just get 2.4 from the start
Thannks for the advice :thumbsup:

DMS have the RTR kit for £139 - on the SMD website, the radio is confirmed 2.4Ghz, albeit a basic 2-channel one with manual settings - more than sufficient for your needs. I note the bundle even includes a battery, not always found in RTR kits, oddly.

Final tip - weatherproof the electrics (You run a 1/8th, so no doubt you know the drill - the brushed motor won't mind, btw) because driving tourers in the wet is a lot of fun!

mattyts 27-02-2011 08:18 PM

Ok ill check it out

Yep ive done my buggy electrics with the ballon method on the reciever and plastidip on the esc and servo

coolcars782 27-02-2011 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattyts (Post 469262)
Ok ill check it out

Yep ive done my buggy electrics with the ballon method on the reciever and plastidip on the esc and servo

How about LazyGoo :thumbsup:

http://rclazy.com/shop/lazy-goo/

Dreadstar 27-02-2011 11:58 PM

Actually,there are 3 shock positions on the front tower,and 2 on the a-arm,with 2 positions on the rear tower and 2 on the a-arm. It's not as low tech as she at first appears.:thumbsup:

RC Kev 09-04-2011 10:23 AM

If it's a tourer/drifter you want, and it needs to be damn good at both (with different setups of course) look no further than a cyclone or xray


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