B44 build and spares
 

I have a B44 on the way and I was wondering if there are any perticular build tips someone can share?

Also, has there been any common weak point identified so I know which spares I should be getting other than the usual (wishbones/diff gears/etc.)?

I'm from a Lazer ZX-5 background so have absultely no idea which other cars parts may fit so any advice appreciated :)

Would anything at all from the Lazer fit (ie. wheels, bearings or ...)? :wtf:

I would let you know to take care of pins in each CVA. The ring outside is not enough to keep them in place. I would suggest you to grind a flat in the middle of pin ;)

Olivier

pretty much nothing carry over, other than the 2 motor screws.

u wil need all new hex drivers aswell.

Are there any advice to building the AE shocks especially regarding fitting travel limiters? Do people run travel limiters in these shocks for this car.

Copy the Jared Tebo setup on the AE website. A good starting point;)

What do you class as a limiter??

O-rings inside the shock leg

kit setup says to add one limiter and if you check the droop this gives you its prity much right on the limit

In actual fact Cris, I find nitro tubing works even better as you can cut it to your desired length (1mm - 3mm) to make your own spacers and it's cheap as chips :)

No grease used in gearbox?
 

Do you guys use grease in the gearbox because the manual states not to use any?

I find this a bit strange??? :confused:

I don't and have never had a problem on my Lazer so when I built my B44 I didn't use any either.

I think the reason is that as the plastic beds in (allegedly :D) the tiny bits of plastic makes a grinding paste with th egrease and wears the gears quicker. If you don't use grease then the bit that wears off becomes dust that sticks to the gearbox casing. Something like that anyway, I am no expert :)

Weight distribution: my B44 is now all built up (no batteries yet) but as my GTB and 6.5 motor sit on the same side the car seems very unbalanced. Has anyone added any weights to equalise both sides and if so how much and where did you put them?

I'm thinking of moving the GTB to the other side with the servo and rx as another option.

Specs so far:
GTB and 6.5R
Futaba S9550
Spektrum

I've ordered some Maxamps saddle pack lipo's as batteries.

http://carlventer.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/b44_1.JPG

http://carlventer.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/b44_2.JPG

Dare I say that running LiPos is going to mess up your weight distribution even more?

The car has been designed to handle with ~400gms worth of NiMHs at the back of the chassis. That's what it won the worlds with.

Instead you'll be running it with ~200gms (I don't know the actual weight) of LiPo cells instead.

You'll move the centre of gravity a LONG way forward on the car by doing that.

I'll stick weights on if the car handle's like a dog but there is no way I am ever going back to nimh now that I have tasted sweet sweet lipo juice :D

i fount that with my 4200 the car still wants to nose down so if you put sumat lighter in the back its goin to be a pig

I've just done some very unscientific testing with a bag of rice of 295gr and the car seems just about perfectly balanced front to back.

The 5500mah lipo pack I want is 295gr (http://www.maxamps.com/Lipo-5500-74-Saddle.htm) so I don't think there will be too big an issue.

I'll report back when the batteries arrive and are fitted. :)

Just finished building my B44 and (I Know people will think I'm biased but....) it is without doubt one of the nicest kits I have ever built. It's the very first kit I have ever built that didn't need sandpaper and shims to get the wishbones moving free without too much slop. In fact the whole thing just kinda went together. I can't wait to run it!

To answer some of the questions above>>>

The gears as new are notchy, they always are and generally just require some running to get right. I haven't run my car yet, so can't say for sure, but my plan is to run it shimmed as the manual suggests for 30 mins on the bench, then give it some track action. Grease is good though, it certainly can't hurt.

Shock limiting - no shims should be ok, but probably one small white shim in the rear would be good to start and none in the front if you run the outside hole in the wishbone or one shim if you run the inside hole. If you want more midcorner steering then take shims out of the front shocks.