Battery Strap Screws
 

Hi,

Just got me a 1009 Saddle Pack Chassis for my X6!
Really happy so far, very neat job :thumbsup:
However, I must be being a bit thick, as I can't get any screws to fit the mounting holes for the lipo, that are 4-40 in size, they are all miles too loose/small to be a tight fit in the holes!!!

Am I missing something?

Cheers
Mark

Hi Mark,

The 4 battery strap mounting locations are only threaded from about half way down and do use very long (1" +) screws (or threaded rod) to hold down the strap. If you are only putting a 3/8" or 1/2" screw down into the hole you will not find any thread at that depth. This was done so that you were not screwing a sufficient screw in miles and miles to make it a secure hold on the cells... (if that makes sense)

The "Real Men Wear Black" XF1226 Battery Stand Off kit is ideal for this very job....

http://www.xfactoryrc.com/rc/Images/...-09-14-05t.jpg


http://www.xfactoryrc.com/rc/Images/...-09-14-06t.jpg

Thanks Darren...:o

hi just got my x6 squared ahd my lipos dont fit will these standoffs fix my problem. i have some zippy lipos that are 30mm high:confused:

f you get the strap to fit over thost gigantic lipos the shell won't fit anymore...

new lipos then:thumbdown:

Have you managed to fit those monsters in any car yet apart from maybe a B44?

i ran them in my d4 i had to raise the top deck and were tight uer the shell

Are they legal??? There is a height limit, though I forget what it is.

not sure i only club racing and do a bit of bashing

I've just bought a stand off kit to fit my brand new 1006 chassis even with the 1" grubby's they only screw in 1/8" before ther flush with the top of the nyloc's, is this right? seem's abit strange to have all that thread and use absolute minimal another 1/8" would have seen me happier.

We'd like another 1/4"! But the supplier tells us the l" is the longest made in 4/40.

Why not use countersunk screws and go in through the bottom of the chassis. Surely you would be able to get them as long as you would like then, no?

Surely 1/8" of thread at the bottom of a hole is only as secure as 1/8" of thread at the top? if the battery post's were nominal all the way through instead of relieved you could start with a shorter grubby and if the chassis stripped just put a longer one in? plus if your only removing the nyloc how many times would you have to screw/unscrew the grubby to start with? one of the holes in my last chassis stripped, i ended up bonding the screw in because as young chazz say's 1" is max you can get hold of.

Look at your chassis and you'll see that flat-head screws coming up from the bottom is just what it was designed for. If you buy an X - 60 (which was released first) that's just what you get. The threaded area only goes up a little way because it would be a real drag to have to thread the screw the entire way, and all that thread is not needed when coming up from the bottom.

Like everybody else, our chassis tool has a removable insert that lengthens or shortens the chassis. Insert in = X - 60. Insert out = X - 6 Sq. We knew the truck would be released first, so that's where our heads were and there we made a mistake. The screws coming up from the bottom are too tall for the buggy body.

So the buggy comes with four long flat head screws to come down from the top. Here in the US, where often the battery is rarely removed from the car, this works OK. But when you've got to remove the batt for charging, eventually the threads in the chassis will fail, and studs with low-profile nuts is the way to go.

Lock-Tite 'em in and most people have no problems.