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Tamiya
(http://www.oople.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=22)
DF-03 winter project : some questions
I decided to have some fun this winter turning a DF03 into a racecar. I know many people tried this already but since I can't find a serious race report (besides Jimmy's, but that was with an almost bone stock DF03) and given the fact that I just LOVE the DF03 concept, I decided to give it a try myself.
I got a TRF501X to race so it's not going to be disaster if all goes wrong, and I end up with a good basher/training/foul weather car. So I went to the internet and ordered the following at my usual HK supplier :
Now from what I've read, the main issues in turning the DF03 into a top class racing car seems to be the following :
Am I missing something ? I'm going to try the car first with all the hopups and check a few things out for myself but I'm thinking about doing the following :
If you guys are interested, I'll keep you posted on the progres Just got a message from the homefront : the postman deliverd a big package for me ! :) |
Will you test it sunday in Arendonk?:)
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It could take a while though. |
You may want to add the Df-03 hop up shocks to your project and the heatsink bars.;)
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Didn't mention it but I'll be using a set of AE B4 shocks. Those Tamiya plastic shocks are just a notch over "useless" :D I forgot to order the heatsink bars. Thanks :rolleyes: |
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Well, I came home from work and look what I found. Let the project begin.
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First step : Modify some alu pieces of the 3racing chassis so it accepts side-by-side cells. I just wonder why 3racing made the chassis so it accepts only stick packs :rolleyes:
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The kit went together like a charm ! I was pleasantly surprised to see that the typical "Tamiya slop" I always had on my tamiya's in the 90'ies is as good as gone !
anyway, this is how it looks after 1 night's work. |
nice ride
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right, few tipsters for you with regard to rear wishbone mounting.....
you either need to make a new motor plate to move the motor a little further forward and a little higher, to not do this will mean you can't get the front suspension block in... OR.... you can raise the whole rear gearbox to do the same. You will need to extend the chassis at the rear to accomodate the rear block. I did ask them to do these things when they were making the conversion..... but hey... they ignored me. I don't beleive the TRF suspension fits. But I think someone (3Racing?) are doing caster blocks for the front now. Buy another set of tamiya front diff outdrives.... and use them on the rear! Buy shims and shim the gearboxes!!! I am sure there is more |
@ jamminj650 :
I chose the DF03 for its intriguing layout and the endless hopup abilities. It's just a project for me as I'll still be racing the TRF501X at our nationals. After all, I became vice-champion this year so I'm not complaining about the performance of the TRF. I'd say the Durga is a safer bet in terms of performance because of its proven TRF501X suspension. @DCM : During the build, I already figured the rear outdrives could cause problems in the longer term, so they will be included in my next HK order. about the gearbox : having driven a ZX5 in 2006, I take GOOD care when it comes to gear mesh :D The rear wishbone mounting : I'll be making a longer chassis this winter so I'll have a good look at the possibilities. Does Tamiya make something like the antisquad block on a Losi XXX CR ? The easiest option would indeed be to tilt the entire rear gearbox. I did this before as an emergency measure but it's a bit of a crude sollution. Do you have some more info on the castor blocks ? 3racing and the other hopup companies all have alu blocks but they don't mention castor. Just a thought : i noticed a slight sweepback on the front wishbones. I was thinking of flipping the wishbones back to front to gain some extra wheelbase. The shocks will be mounted on the front of the shocktower then. |
I shimmed up the front of the gearbox to get a little anti-squat. not much since I didn't want to raise the motor too much.
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I read some of your issues, I am new at this, interested in your comment chassis is 1cm to short?, what problems does this result in?, if you make the chassis longer presumably you will have to use a longer drive shaft, are these available. I have seen a kit conversion available fro 7 battery. |
After seeing some video's of the DF03 on track and also from feedback here on the forum and from Jimmy's review, I found the DF03 looks jitterisch driving out of corners. A longer wheelbase gives more stability.
Making a longer driveshaft isn't doo difficult if you can use a lathe. But I also noticed that the driveshaft ends of my Hopup shaft from Yeah Racing are attached with pins. So all I have to do is push out the pins, remove the ends and find some alumiunium tube of the correct diameter and I can make any driveshaft length I want. :) |
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shim the gears on the box, makes it better running
use the trf suspension blocks is the best so you take the mounting off the gearbox and onto the chassis. |
You may have seen my DF-03 on the other conversion topic, but it's spec is
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And finally, now I've worked out how to attach them here's some photos!
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And some more. Please shout if you want me to delete them as I didn't mean to hijack the topic so much! :o
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good info obout the Mono 7 cell chassis. I had been thinking about it myself.
Question : is it made from a stiffer material compared to the kit chassis ? |
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