NITRO ENGINE CONROD Help me Please :)
 

Hello there :)

thanks for checking this out.

I have just town down an old GX .12 engine, and realised how easy it was.
I bought my GO GX .21 5 port engine exactly a year ago tomorrow.

and it came with a spare conrod.

Now i am wondering, if i swap out the old conrod for the new. Do i have do go through break in all over again, or can i go as normal?

When i bought the engine it said once break in is complete send back to GO so they can change the conrod for you. Personally i cannot wait a week to use my engine again so i will do it my self so long as i dont have to re-break in my engine :)

THANKYOUU :D:D:D:D

No no break in required as such, just let the engine idle for a few minutes to let the brass bush bed in before you thrash it!!

Pre heating the engine before you start it would be an advantage to save any un-necessary wear on the bush whilst it beds in!!

Competition heat heater or a hair dryer untill the WHOLE engine is about 200f will do you right dude!

That great :) thanks dude :)

i usually use the heat gun on the engine before starting in the winter anyways :)

get yerself one of these mate

http://www.jespares.com/nitro-models...tegory_id=1323

And use it all the time your engine will last many many times longer for it!! mo0st of the engine wear is caused on cold start up!! SO start it from hot (these puppies get the WHOLE engine over 200f in under 10 mins and works of a 12 battery!) and significantly reduce engine wear!! Ive been running one on one of my Alpha's for 4 gallons and its still got mechanical pinch!!!!

i have ran way over 6 gallons and still cant turn flywheel with finger when in the car compression is amazing!

Or better still one of these.....
http://www.maxbashing.com/mbforum/showthread.php?t=7335

I've had one for some time,excellent bit of kit.

either or but for £10 more than a Deluxe surestart I know which id have!!

And it wont be a thermos flask and a headlight bulb either!! I know John well and the Surestart does a great job, but to my mind the Comp heat is made specifically for the job with a specially designed element and worth the £10 more than the Surestart.

They both do the same job but one does it better!

in what way does it do it better kev?

both do the job,both preheat the engines to a nice temperature..save £10 and get a surestart :)

heatsoak through the engine is MUCH improved over the surestart Dave. Sloppy ran tests on the two and the comp heat got the crankcase and chassis significantly warmer in the same 10 min period than the surestart. Ill agree there was only 10 or so degrees difference at the plug BUT at the crank and chassis the was a massive difference

So whats the surestart made 'specifically for' then??:confused:
Keep it homegrown..keep it surestart :thumbsup:

hmmm no it isnt kev..sorry.

any heat transferred to the head will soak down thru the crankcasing,both reached the same temperature after 5 mins so theres no difference..heat is heat is heat.

my surestart gets to 160f in under 10 mins and thats on the crankcasing not on the head,that is plenty warm enough.

Back to the con-rod, I would advise on buying new wrist pin clips and not using the old one's as they can get damaged on removal and can cause all kinds of damage if one should pop out at 40,000 rpm.