longer xxx4
 

does any one have any idear how to make the losi xxx4 longer and less twitchy as mine always wants to keep swapping ends is there anything u can dremel to make it better any pics would help thx

I'm currently looking at doing just that to my XXX4 also.
What I think should be possible is to push the front wishbones further forward to straighten the driveshafts. You'll need longer hinge pins and you'll need to space the front hinge pin brace further forward but I reckon it can be done.

I also tend to run mine with the rear hubs spaced as far back as possible but stretching the front seems to be the easiest option I can think of.

I think you'll need to be ingenious with regard to fixing the front bumper because you'll lose the two screws that bolt through from the front gearbox housing but I'm sure that can be overcome.

Sorry but I've not got any pix yet - but I have got myself a set of the longest Losi Ti hinge pins I could find (LOSA6094) which are 2.125inch long as opposed to the standard car's 1.90inch front pins - so I should be able to achieve about 5mm I reckon.

Stering ackermann will change though which could create further problems to solve.

HTH

Iv filed the back wish bones and added 5 mm to each was going to file the front pivot block down and space the wish bone forward with out changing the front to much

Try to switch the rear wishbones from left to right and vice versa and mount the shocks in front of them. It shortens the wheelbase and transfers more weight to the rear. I also run a front swaybar if there is to much grip.
Thought about dremeling the front suspensionholder, too, to lengthen the wheelbase.

dont drive around in an antique and you wont have these "little" issues :p:p:lol::lol:

Lengthening the rear will take grip away i would of thought as you would have less traction on exit. Does it swap ends going into or out of the corner?

Going in to the corner all it wants to do is power slide

Ollie tried the longer steering arms last night for the first time and his was exactly the same. We are going to drop a spring on the front for next week to try and make it more progressive. Hes currently running silver fronts so we will try orange in practice and go from there. Reguarding lengthening the front there is 2-3mm to be had by dremmeling the hub at the front and putting a spacer in behind it.

iv got my car to a 287mm wheel base but that might be to long

this is not always the case it all depends on where the car is loosing traction if you need more grip though chicanes and cahnge of direction shorter will help if you need more grip though faster sweepers and at high speeds longer will be better.

stu

[QUOTE=branstonpickle;436011]does any one have any idear how to make the losi xxx4 longer and less twitchy as mine always wants to keep swapping ends is there anything u can dremel to make it better any pics would help thx[/QUOTE


jamie i have two words steering lock you could just turn it down and i will put money on you have your steering curve set to either 0 or a plus figure.

stu

it is 0 will try it longer wed if it dont work ill turn the wishbones back round

I tried it, got it longer and lost all the lock on the outside wheel. Tried loads to fix it but it just didn't work properly.

I've been having a look at my XXX4 and I think if you flip the front wishbones round, put the shocks on the rear of the shock tower
and turnbuckles to the front it might just work.

you need it to be around 283mm and have a slightly negative steering curve, my steering is between -45 and -25 depending on the track layout

Thats exactly what i did, but the lock on the outside wheel was awful.

The other issue is the chassis ground out on fast corners.

6 of 10 in the A Final at the US Nationals were these "antiques". Worlds A-main qualifiers using "other" cars were in the B and C. Somebody has it figured out.

ok folks
here is my setup with mods that make the xxx4 locked in and easy to drive
awesome indoors or on a track that isnt too ruff


mods
xxxs front pivot block cut flush pin holes drilled through
(this brings the front wishbone pins in line)(stops car ditching in front end weight transfer)
shorten ackerman link by 2mm (smooths out steering)( u need to relieve the chassis tunnel a bit to get full lock)
xxxs rear pivot blocks (use 3.2mm drill blanks for hinge pins just cut to length as losi do not make one long enough) if you need help with blanks i can source u some!!
1deg xxcr rear hubs
xx4 wishbones
ujs not cvds
(this creates the geometry of the xx4 rear end)
setup

one way diff (use ball diff for less agressive car)
front shocks
blue piston
70wt losi oil
ae .71 shock shaft (reduces droop by approx 2mm)
black spring

middle hole on tower
inner on w/bone
camber -1deg
inner upper hole on tower
1mm spacer under casterblock ballstud

space front wishbones as far forward as possible

i personally dont like the bellcrank extentions they make car too twitchy for me!!


rear end

wishbones rr ll
space fully rear
hub fully rearwards car has 2deg toe in inboard plus 1deg outboard 3deg total
0deg squat block
camber -1
link tower middle
hub inner

shocks
40wt losi oil
blue piston
no internal spacers
red spring

middle hole tower
inner on wbone


cells forward
94t spur gear

hope this helps
if u need any more info just holler
steve