trf201 setup help
 

Hi chaps, I seem to have an issue on my car which I need sorting.

Basically I got way to much initial steering and not enough exit steering.

Help guys?

Give us a clue what your running and I'll help ya out ;)

35wt all round currently
kit pistons
kit springs
mostly kit settings
front shocks out on the wishbone, in one from kit on the tower
eaxtra anti-squat
minispikes all round, outside removed on front
20g weight on servo
about 60g under battery

Best bet is to put my setup on from southport.....this will get you in the right ball park then go from there, asuming your racing on astra? the kit springs will not be hard enough..

I was thinking the kit springs were to soft.

He's running mainly on old skool grass tracks!

Has anyone got any of the small wheel spacers part N13, or where i cd buy these from. Really need some, many thanx

What happened Scott? Lost the wheel?

N13 parts are part of N parts sprue - 1914075
http://www.modellbau-seidel.de/index...t%FCcke-TRF201

They are 1mm thick, 5mm inner diameter.
http://demonpowerproducts.co.uk/prod...roducts_id=336 or
http://www.modelsinmotion.co.uk/prod...53587__id23234
They'll do...

Anytime dude!

Hi Dom, no never lost the wheel but noticed yesterday morning when giving the car the once over that one of those spacers had a split on it. Just don't want to cause any damage as the car's flying at the minute. Going great.

Then the metal shims are much better.

Though any side impact will be transmitted right to the bearing - the benefit of the plastic spacer, it'll absorb the force of small impacts, break on big ones.

Bearings are cheap enough tho, so I'd go for the metal shims and just change the bearings when they go noisy.

See you on 22nd.

im not sure the 5x7mm shims are best replacement for the N13 spacer. I dont have the car with me now, but I'm pretty sure the N13 spacer is there instead of shims, is cos the shims would contact both the inner race and side plate of the bearings, which you dont want. You want a spacer(N13) that will only contact the inner race of the bearing for more efficiency.

Shims are small enough to contact just the inner part.
I know I'm using them already.

And I know the principle you're worrying about. It's the same principle as the cone on the old 12th scale belleville washer arrangement on RC12L3, etc. The cone has to touch the inner part of the race only.

I wouldn't have posted this advice if it wasn't sound and already proven.
Scott - don't worry mate, shims I've quoted are fine. :thumbsup:

I take it "Fastinfastout" :blush: is just living up to his name...


Anyway, FastinFastout is right - as long as whatever you shim with, isn't touching the outside of the bearing, it'll be fine.

I'd use 2 of the 5x0.5mm spacers that go in the 511 diffs and I think space some driveshafts on that car too, I assume 2 spacers work fine?

Hi Dave,

Are those any easier to get hold of? What's the outer diameter of them?
I reckon they must be close to 7mm.

I liked the 5x7mm shims because they worked and they give a you the option of putting in slighter more to make a snug fit for the pin, without binding of course!

Axles are still spinning like tops, and the pins don't drop out! Win-Win

To be honest I doubt they are easier to get hold of! I think shims along with them are a good idea though, to reduce slop!

On that subject, am I missing a trick, the front wheels move about on the bearings (in and out), my b4 did the same, do other people find a way of removing this?

have you fitted the little spacer in the hub, Dave?

Yep, just not sure if people shim them up too?

I'm no help here - I fitted Losi hubs so I've got the same hex on the front as the 511 (used to run the Losi so old wheels/tyres still fit the 201!).

I'm happy to document it if anyone is considering the same change?

Yeah that'd be great, always good to have more options!