Build tips...
 

I am getting a Dx410R tonight and wondered if anyone had any build tips ?


I have built a fair few kits before and i know there are little tips and tricks to stop stuff falling apart later !


Mark

Main things are to make sure you use thread lock on all screws that go into aluminium parts, seal your diffs up with grease or even better waterproof grease.

Build tips can also be found here:

http://www.team-durango.com/blog/?p=1017
http://www.team-durango.com/blog/?p=44
http://www.team-durango.com/blog/?p=24

Some good starting set ups for Uk outdoor tracks can be found here:

http://www.team-durango.com/blog/?p=869

Apart from that your good to go!

Hope this helps

Craig Collinson

Yes, get rid of the yellow wheels. What a dirty trick that is, TD!

Yeah I'm not happy that they advertise it with White wheels and give you yellow !!!!
Also in the advert it shows the car working minipins which ain't in my kit !!!!!

Mark

If you look at the photo gallery for thr 'R' kit it has yellow wheels.

Some people prefer white and some prefer yellow so theres no way of pleasing everyone.

In regards to the tyres, minipins are made by schumacher so TD would have to buy them to include them in the kits. Its very rare for any kits to include tyres as there sold worldwide, so most people would throw away the tyres if there not suited to the tracks they race on.

When you buy a B4 you get proline tyres, mine went in the bin as we dont race on dirt in the UK. what a waste lol.

Built mine, then trimmed out the clear body...

Initially I thought i'd cut it short. i.e it doesn't seem deep enough when it's on the car. Then I looked at a few others and it seems it's normal... is it ?

Do some people trim the body lower then the guide marks for extra 'depth' ?

I understand Craig !
That was all said in jest.... Then reading it again it didn't sound like it !
Kit looks awesome, I can't wait to build it tonight.

Mark

Ha! it did look like a bit of a moan/rant reading it from a third parties point of view.

the kit does look sweet and for the price its a bargain, even with yellow wheels! lol.

Hi Andy,

youve not cut it short, when you cut the body along the lines it doesnt sit that deep when its on the car, but this is not a problem. Mine is cut along the lines and i use velcro whith no problems.

Some people do choose to trim the body lower but its not essential.

Cheers boss.
I was almost on my way back to the model shop to get another when I fitted it, couldn't believe i'd cut it wrong.

Must say i've never built a kit that felt as well made as this, the tolerances of fit on everything are very tight - nice, and this is the 'R' spec, plastic fantastic version :0

A good tip to help the shell last longer is to dremmel the rear body post off (or remove it all together) and secure the shell with velcro on the lower rear edge of the shell to the chassis.

Well worth it in the long run. It stops the shell cracking round the body hole when the chassis flexes.

Extremely important build tips!
 

All,

I just bought myself a (scarcely) used DEX410 and I feel I have to share a couple of tips I found when going through the car checking the condition of things.
I have seen mentioned both on oople and on another forum that the drivetrain does not run smooth and that motors run hot, short run times and so on.
One of the most crucial things to make sure you get right is the shimming of the differentials...
On the plastic case side the shim should be 0.2mm and on the spur side it should be 0.1mm. If you do not pay attention to this you will get the diff 1/10th of a mm to close to the pinion and this is enough for the drivetrain to bind heavily, make noise, cause gear damage and so on.

this isnt always true,if i have it like that on mine i can feel it get tight at one point,you need to work out which is the best way and the right ones to get the mesh loose on a full rotation:thumbsup:

Best way to get a free gearbox is to:
1. Put your diff in the gear casing without the pinion gear in.
2. Shim the diff (doesn't matter which side with the thinnest shims until there is no side to side play between the diff and casing. (You now know how many shims you can 'play' about with.
3. Put the pinion gear assembly in.
4. Move the shims around until you just get a little bit of back-lash between the crown gear and pinion.
5. Rotate the crown gear checking the mesh all around.

Each diff can be different as there are slight tolerances between each part.

All of my diffs have no shims on the metal crown gear and either 0.1 or 0.2mm on the case side.

Basically I'm running the mesh as loose as I can..

Really good guide there Adam !
This is exactly what I did on my diffs and the feels super free.

Adam I emailed over last night about an issue with my lipo holder please could you find out what's happening ?

Regards
Mark

Hi mate,
I am in the process of getting the dex410R but i am undecided as to what esc and motor to go for, what are you going to be putting in your buggy? I have been told to go for a 6.5 turn motor but their are so many out there, I dont want to spend silly amounts but something which could be competitive (when i learn to drive it) and reliable.

Thanks
Matt

Matt

I'll be putting a seed passion 6.5 in mine with a nosram speedo !
If you call Michael @ MB models (his link is in my sig) I'm sure he will sort you out a good deal!
Tell him you have spoken to me on here.

Regards
Mark

I did ring him up thismorning actually because I wanted to order a set of the outdrive boots which only come with the 410 but he hasnt got them instock yet so will wait untill they are back instock and order it all together.

Thanks mark Great help!!

He ain't got an as I knicked then for my R kit !!!!
If your desperate I'll send you mine as I won't be running my kit for a month or so ?

Thanks :thumbsup: but its the Same here I wont be running mine for a while well not untill the sun has disappeared anyway so i have plenty of time to wait for them to come back instock but I cant wait to get it coz i love the building stage :)